That's crazy bbyer...I JUST installed tie-rods for the first time, after 113,000 miles including some off-roading.

 

I agree and at times wondered if it was just the dealer, but it is not.

I am not kidding about our roads being a war zone, so much so that the dealer stocks multiple sets of the rods. Stocking anything is a big deal here as I was just bitching to parts last week that they did not even have a P21/5 tail light bulb in stock - well to be fair, they had one, but I replace them in pairs and I had just used up my spare bulbs so was stocking up again - received an email today, my four special order bulbs have come in - egads!

Alternators are an interesting item. Here in the West, they tend to last at least 80,000 miles and even longer; down East, they are replaced about every third oil change - something to do with humidity and salt on the roads.

The thing is with the cost of rubber, one does not really want the front tyres heading off in differing directions - yes, and a new wheel alignment each time as well.

 

Crazy....and that's why I've always taken info on these boards with a grain of salt because with every report we've got different vehicle history/maintenance, driver habits and operating conditions.

 

Yeap, grain of salt is right...As I stated some time a go, I p.e. am still on original air compressor and going strong , so to speak, changing only parts ,that are in compressor overhaul kit and last , but not least , dryer.

As far as suspension leaks , last year , I had to replace a rear valve block, due to 2'' overnight sag in both rear bags and just last month, I replaced a front valve block as front was lowering 1.5 inches overnight.
Front was easy to swap, but rear, f@@k, what a pain, due to very tight access to a air lines and small increments in movement of the spanner .Not only that .. a new harness plug would not click back into a old port, and that part alone was frustrating enough for me to use all available very bad words in both English and Polish languages , with a few French and German thrown into the mix as well.
After all that wresting, I also used an electrical tape and taped around both connectors, just to be on a safe side and preventing it from accidental disconnection.
Now , I see , that my air leaks was vastly due to foulty valve blocks as I just got back from being away , on the job, for a week, and when I started LR3 , compressor did not even kicked in to compensate for lost or not lost air. So all is good now......for now