LR3 Suspension Issue
#1
LR3 Suspension Issue
I'm a newbie member but have been on this forum for a few years now. I have an issue which may have been discussed previously but can't quite figure out where to get a specific response.
My issue: I replaced my suspension compressor about 2 1/2 years ago, replaced the original compressor for my 2006 LR3 with an AMK compressor. I didn't upgrade the firmware which may have been a serious mistake on my part. My car has steadily been giving me random suspension faults over the last few months, progressively increasing in number over that period. It has now defaulted to giving me the suspension fault error every time I start it and in the last week the car is only raised in the back and the front is not suspended at all. The compressor won't even kick in at all for the last week and I can feel the front riding with no suspension at all; the back makes it bearable to drive to the store and back. Do I need a new compressor or might it be something to do with the valve blocks?
I am getting the red "not over 30 MPH" message, before this past week the messages were random; sometimes none sometimes amber but "red" appeared and really started intensifying over the last two weeks. It was similar to when my original compressor went out. This is just different in that the back stays raised whether I shut off the car for a couple of days or not. The raise and lower functions worked fine when I didn't have error messages.
Any assistance and advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
My issue: I replaced my suspension compressor about 2 1/2 years ago, replaced the original compressor for my 2006 LR3 with an AMK compressor. I didn't upgrade the firmware which may have been a serious mistake on my part. My car has steadily been giving me random suspension faults over the last few months, progressively increasing in number over that period. It has now defaulted to giving me the suspension fault error every time I start it and in the last week the car is only raised in the back and the front is not suspended at all. The compressor won't even kick in at all for the last week and I can feel the front riding with no suspension at all; the back makes it bearable to drive to the store and back. Do I need a new compressor or might it be something to do with the valve blocks?
I am getting the red "not over 30 MPH" message, before this past week the messages were random; sometimes none sometimes amber but "red" appeared and really started intensifying over the last two weeks. It was similar to when my original compressor went out. This is just different in that the back stays raised whether I shut off the car for a couple of days or not. The raise and lower functions worked fine when I didn't have error messages.
Any assistance and advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
Last edited by RaiderRow; 07-10-2019 at 12:04 AM.
#3
Thanks for the info. I think I might head to a mechanic or my local European car auto shop. I didn't change out the relay and left the one that came with the car instead of switching to the one which came with the compressor because they appeared similar; that may have been another mistake too I guess. I'm thinking about just doing the job myself: installing a new compressor, using the relay that comes with the compressor and then getting a firmware upgrade. Would that fix the issue do you think? I'm trying to avoid the hefty bill from the auto shop.
#4
Here is what I would do:
1. Buy an IIDTool from Gap Diagnostics.
2. Using the IIDTool, check your calibration and re-cal as necessary.
3. Install the new relay and firmware.
4. Install new compressor if necessary.
I put the process in that order because you don't know if your compressor is toast or not. Sometimes the calibration can be so bad that the EAS won't even engage. Buying the IIDTool allows you to do the job yourself; not only the calibrating but the firmware update as well. I hope that helps you.
1. Buy an IIDTool from Gap Diagnostics.
2. Using the IIDTool, check your calibration and re-cal as necessary.
3. Install the new relay and firmware.
4. Install new compressor if necessary.
I put the process in that order because you don't know if your compressor is toast or not. Sometimes the calibration can be so bad that the EAS won't even engage. Buying the IIDTool allows you to do the job yourself; not only the calibrating but the firmware update as well. I hope that helps you.
#5
Here is what I would do:
1. Buy an IIDTool from Gap Diagnostics.
2. Using the IIDTool, check your calibration and re-cal as necessary.
3. Install the new relay and firmware.
4. Install new compressor if necessary.
I put the process in that order because you don't know if your compressor is toast or not. Sometimes the calibration can be so bad that the EAS won't even engage. Buying the IIDTool allows you to do the job yourself; not only the calibrating but the firmware update as well. I hope that helps you.
1. Buy an IIDTool from Gap Diagnostics.
2. Using the IIDTool, check your calibration and re-cal as necessary.
3. Install the new relay and firmware.
4. Install new compressor if necessary.
I put the process in that order because you don't know if your compressor is toast or not. Sometimes the calibration can be so bad that the EAS won't even engage. Buying the IIDTool allows you to do the job yourself; not only the calibrating but the firmware update as well. I hope that helps you.
UPDATE:
I got the IIDTool and finally figured out that I was getting a malfunctioning height sensor on the back. The rear valve block was also stuck. I asked a former dealership mechanic what he thought I should do. He suggested that I install the new compressor and relay first and see if car would level itself out since the compressor ECU might not be operating normally because of the dead compressor. I did and it worked, I turned on the car and the rear valve block sprung back to life instantly, releasing the excess air and leveling out to normal height. Warning for anyone changing out their compressor: Before I had the firmware upgrade, the over-pressurized air managed to blow a line out of the compressor which I couldn't get back in. When I went to get the firmware upgrade, the auto service shop managed to get it back in with a little labor. I got away with paying just over $250 for both services so I consider myself quite lucky. I suggest heading straight to getting the firmware upgraded as soon as you start the car after installation.
Thanks so much @houm_wa
Last edited by RaiderRow; 08-05-2019 at 08:35 PM. Reason: UPDATE
#6
Thanks so much, I'll go that route.
UPDATE:
I got the IIDTool and finally figured out that I was getting a malfunctioning height sensor on the back. The rear valve block was also stuck. I asked a former dealership mechanic what he thought I should do. He suggested that I install the new compressor and relay first and see if car would level itself out since the compressor ECU might not be operating normally because of the dead compressor. I did and it worked, I turned on the car and the rear valve block sprung back to life instantly, releasing the excess air and leveling out to normal height. Warning for anyone changing out their compressor: Before I had the firmware upgrade, the over-pressurized air managed to blow a line out of the compressor which I couldn't get back in. When I went to get the firmware upgrade, the auto service shop managed to get it back in with a little labor. I got away with paying just over $250 for both services so I consider myself quite lucky. I suggest heading straight to getting the firmware upgraded as soon as you start the car after installation.
Thanks so much @houm_wa
UPDATE:
I got the IIDTool and finally figured out that I was getting a malfunctioning height sensor on the back. The rear valve block was also stuck. I asked a former dealership mechanic what he thought I should do. He suggested that I install the new compressor and relay first and see if car would level itself out since the compressor ECU might not be operating normally because of the dead compressor. I did and it worked, I turned on the car and the rear valve block sprung back to life instantly, releasing the excess air and leveling out to normal height. Warning for anyone changing out their compressor: Before I had the firmware upgrade, the over-pressurized air managed to blow a line out of the compressor which I couldn't get back in. When I went to get the firmware upgrade, the auto service shop managed to get it back in with a little labor. I got away with paying just over $250 for both services so I consider myself quite lucky. I suggest heading straight to getting the firmware upgraded as soon as you start the car after installation.
Thanks so much @houm_wa
#7
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Alexandria, VA via California
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