Hi All -

It worked before I replaced all the o-ring seals in the compressor, center, rear and front valve bodies. I was trying to stay proactive with maintenance (and a few of the center valve o-rings were brittle and would crumble in my hands).

I took the valve apart again yesterday, and took apart the valve control that goes to that corner and looked at the o-rings again, and the spring with the slider assembly. All appeared to look fine. In the valve test with the GAP tool, all other corners work fine (LF, RF, LR). I'll service test each corner, and aside from the RR, I can hear the air entering or flushing out of each air spring. On the RR, the rear valve body solenoid is engaging both up and down, but I don't hear the air flow. I had another solenoid, swapped them out, and same result. I learned this was going on when

1.) I can't calibrate the ride height sensors because I can't seem to get air in or out of the RR.
2.) It goes into extended mode when going normal ride height as if there is an obstruction. When it goes into extended mode, I'm guessing the air does get to the RR spring and levels out through the crosslink valve, but that is just a guess, because ultimately, it does go up, but cannot control individually.

I have a new rear air spring that I can replace it with, but this seems like a problem with the valve still. Before I start throwing parts at it, wanted to see if anyone else had a thought or had encountered something similar.

Thanks in advance. - Jeremy

 

Did you verify that beyond all doubt the air lines are hooked up correctly? The green line is, for example, not air supply but rather goes to a strut (I forget which side is green). And on the valve blocks themselves, supply air comes in on the side, not at the center bottom air connection. The bottom air connection goes to the rear RIGHT (on the front valve block, the bottom air connection goes to the front LEFT). I really wish they used three colors instead... But it has happened before were people have got the lines mixed up causing the system to not behave properly. And also, because of this setup you can NOT mix front and rear valve blocks around. Otherwise, again, you can end up with weirdness like you have. Front valve block for front only, rear for rear only. So just make sure they are 100% correct beyond any doubt and then we can dig deeper.

 

Hey Dakota -

Great questions and things to look for. I have double-checked the air lines. The air in/out has the shortest leash of the lines back there and goes in the side, bottom most #11 on your diagram. The green is the LR rear air spring, #12, and #10 goes to the RR.

I double checked the p/n on both of the solenoids I have (rears) and it is RVH000055. Why do I have two you might ask? When attempting to replace #5 and #7 on the crossover link valve, the bottom half of the valve after splitting it is wedged in there. So on my original, I marred the o-ring surface area trying to get it out and still wasn't successful. I bought a replacement, used OEM Land Rover block from eBay, replaced all the o-rings except for #5 and #7 on both the front and the rear because I could not get that cap out on either of the (2) rears or (1) front valves I have without tools and a considerable amount of force or get a good grip anywhere that wasn't on an o-ring surface. So I left them alone.

So for full transparency, on both the front and the rear, the only o-rings I didn't replace were #5 and #7. However, I think this is the crossover link valve, and not the corner valves.

 

Okay. Interesting you can hear it operate with the GAP but seemingly no air movement. Because if you can hear it working, that should, in theory, rule out wiring issue. I can only guess that maybe there is a physical blockage. Is there any air in that bag at all? Meaning if you disconnect that strut from the valve block does air dump out?

 

Guess we'll find out, and what you're saying makes the most sense as I can hear the solenoid kicking on with no air flow. It's either that, or that valve isn't moving somehow when energized.

To specifically answer your question, air did blip out when I disconnected the line the other day, but the pressure is minimal since I deflate the corners before disconnecting the lines. And I do believe air was getting to that corner as it was raising in extended mode, but I think it was going through the crosslink valve. Again that's a guess as I don't know what the computer's parameters are for engaging that valve ...

I think I'm just going to replace the air spring since I was going to anyways, I just didn't want to complicate my problem. When I disconnect the airline from the strut, I was thinking about raising that side while it is disconnected to see if air comes out. Wasn't sure if that was a dumb idea or not ...

 

You could switch the lines around from left to right for testing. I know they lengths are limited, but you may be able to get em hooked up. Then you can make rule certain things out. Normally I say the strut would not be the issues, but I know of one case for sure and maybe two were there was some odd blockage inside the cause issues. I think in one case it was a brand new Arnott strut where air could get in, but not out at all. So the struts seemingly can have some sorta internal failure.

If you disconnect the line, air should dump out a lot. Raising that cover manually wont do anything really other than maybe want to suck air in.

 

I can give switching them around a shot ... I struggle to get them into their intended configuration ... I still can't figure out why LR didn't just put that valve in another location that is more easily accessible.

So, you agree I could probably just disconnect the line from the strut, raise the RR side through the GAP tool service test, and let's see if air comes out? That's easier for me to do at the moment as it is on jackstands at all 4 corners. Then that may confirm if it is the valve or the strut. I just looked at the orifice on the top of the rear strut, and I could easily see if something got into it it could block it pretty easily.

 

I dont get why you think raising the vehicle, I assume with a jack, will make air come out. Just disconnect the line at the valve block and see if air comes out. I assume the bag is probably empty tho since you get no up or down. I bet just the other rear corner is doing the work.

 

I think I finally understood what you were getting at. I'm saying raise it with the GAP service tool (I edited my earlier post), where the air tank will supply air to the line through the valve, while the line is disconnected to see if air rushes out. If this is what you thought I meant, then yeah, I'm just missing something.

 

Oh... you mean operate the valve with the gap tool... cause when you were saying raise, I am like no cause you said it wont go up... So thought you were going to use a jack or something to raise it. Gotcha. Yeah, def remove the line and try the GAP to see what happens.