Do you still have a plastic cover over the batter box? Someone once said that if it's not there, water can run down into the computers behind the battery.

 

I do still have all the plastic covers.

As of now, I just removed the battery and the T-case control module. I did not see any corrosion or issues with the connections or wires at all. I unplugged all of them and then put everything back together.

I have literally checked as much as possible for the cause of these issues. (Part of owning a LR I guess)

My last bet would be something with the starter. After getting under the truck, I could see the wires from the starter but needed more info on checking it out to see if its the culprit.

If anyone has any other suggestions, I would love to hear them! And thank you again for all of you guys help

 

I'm sorry that you don't seem to be finding any definitive answers here. The only thing more frustrating than having something fail on the car and forking out big $$$ to fix it is having something fail on the car and not being able to determine WTF it is.

So, I'm just going to rattle off a few things that I remember reading about on this forum:
1. Possible High Speed CAN BUS failure - You already checked this and everything looks ok.
2. Possible battery issue - You already checked this and battery is testing good
3. Possible battery ground issue - You may have already checked since you examined everything behind the battery, but apparently, the negative battery cable can sometimes corrode (inside the cable) so that it is difficult to see. Might want to take a hard look at it and see if you can find any corrosion.
4. Possible water (or soda) dripping down into the center console (where the shift selector is located). I think this typically only generates transmission faults and not the christmas tree that you seem to have, but the solution is to remove the center console trim and dry out the transmission connectors that are located down there. Reassemble and things are usually good.
5. Could there be a security issue? Immobilizer system acting quirky?

That's about all I can think of. Perhaps others can add to the list and not be shy about suggestions at this point. Keep us informed and hopefully we can eventually provide some help...

 

Carefully check the old cabin filter for water damage, inspect the cowl for warping.

Cowl pictures in my gallery. http:// disco3. co.uk/gallery/index.php?cat=11463

I would also consider "traces of water' that could have shorted out the ECU with no apparent corrosion. It almost sounds like, you may have to break down and find another rover and start swapping parts, or take it somewhere if nothing checks out definitely.

 

Thanks for all the responses everyone. With no luck, I cannot pinpoint the problem. I'll be sure to check a lot of things again before I take it to a mechanic.

But that looks like it might be my only solution. I guess I should be ready to watch my bank account balance drop.

Thanks again everyone, I really appreciate it.

 

Have you been able to get any fault codes pulled ?

Well if it is CAN related, the instrument cluster may be worth checking out per this post

Problem on the CAN Bus system - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

 

UPDATE

So I went and took the battery in to have it charged to 100% (despite already knowing it was in great condition, I didn't want to miss anything)

Checked the ECU again and all the connectors. They are perfectly clean and look great. It doesn't seem to be a CAN problem as none of the warning lights that the Med and High CANBUS control are showing up on the dash and their connections to the ECU look perfect.

I dismantled and checked the instrument cluster too. It was in great shape but cleaned it and reattached it anyways.

The last and only thing I have not checked is the starter. I didn't think this was the problem because the car drove perfectly forever and one day just doesn't start. There were no signs of a solenoid going bad or starting the engine taking a while.

My question. My truck has now lowered the suspension completely, is there a way to raise it back up? as I cannot get any suspension features to work.

Also, is there anyway to get to the starter without having to take the wheel off? I don't have access to it being hoisted up and taking off all the metal shields/etc to get to it. I'd just like to give it a good tap and check some lines around it.

Can I just jack it up? (seems the lowered suspension might be a problem)

Thanks again for the help

 

If you washed under the hood, I would pull the TCCM and check it for corrosion. Sometimes you can get away with just cleaning it up, but if it got really wet, it can get corrosion inside the case and damage the PCB itself.

There are other common issues that will bring down the HS CAN(which is the issue, note the temp gauge, indicates no communication between IP and PCM) but go for TCCM first, and move to less likely options if all looks good(wiring in LR wheel well on top side of frame, water ingress to CJB - check if the cabin air filter is wet, corrosion in EPB harness above spare wheel) IP failure aught to cause the flashers to be going off during failure, as MS CAN will usually be taken down as well.

Edit: Didn't notice the second page here...

If your dash is still as pictured earlier, your issue is HS CAN. If you have a multimeter available, you can check voltage and network integrity from the DLC.

I have seen several times(usually after a large, quick dose of water) for the TCCM to get wet and corrode internally, with no issues at the connectors, the metal case can be taken apart to check for internal damage. If all is still determined good there, I would move on with what I said above, but I wouldn't do more then quick visual checks until volt/ohm readings are taken on the HS CAN.

 

Tomorrow I will check out the volt/ohm readings of the HS Can and the remaining pins.

Where can I find the correct volt/ohm for each pin?
When completed tomorrow, I well post the results.

My next question would be, if readings are incorrect, where do I go from there?
Will this require all new parts, or just tracing the problematic wires and checking for breaks to repair?

Thank you again! You have all been such a great help through this tedious process.

 

Key on voltage should be as shown in the attachment, ohm from pin 6-14 with the battery disconnected, and also check both 6 and 14 for short to power and ground.

Depending on the results, the next step will vary.

Each bus should ohm out to ~62 ohms, and voltage will fluctuate slightly. If you end up with ~120 ohms on the HS, you have an open in the wires somewhere, and the follow up would be to ohm from DLC to respective modules to locate the issue.