LR3 won't start, multiple codes and no solution. Trans fault Parking break fault, HDC
Mudding
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 147
Likes: 5
From: Cowtown
UPDATE
So I went and took the battery in to have it charged to 100% (despite already knowing it was in great condition, I didn't want to miss anything)
Checked the ECU again and all the connectors. They are perfectly clean and look great. It doesn't seem to be a CAN problem as none of the warning lights that the Med and High CANBUS control are showing up on the dash and their connections to the ECU look perfect.
I dismantled and checked the instrument cluster too. It was in great shape but cleaned it and reattached it anyways.
The last and only thing I have not checked is the starter. I didn't think this was the problem because the car drove perfectly forever and one day just doesn't start. There were no signs of a solenoid going bad or starting the engine taking a while.
My question. My truck has now lowered the suspension completely, is there a way to raise it back up? as I cannot get any suspension features to work.
Also, is there anyway to get to the starter without having to take the wheel off? I don't have access to it being hoisted up and taking off all the metal shields/etc to get to it. I'd just like to give it a good tap and check some lines around it.
Can I just jack it up? (seems the lowered suspension might be a problem)
Thanks again for the help
So I went and took the battery in to have it charged to 100% (despite already knowing it was in great condition, I didn't want to miss anything)
Checked the ECU again and all the connectors. They are perfectly clean and look great. It doesn't seem to be a CAN problem as none of the warning lights that the Med and High CANBUS control are showing up on the dash and their connections to the ECU look perfect.
I dismantled and checked the instrument cluster too. It was in great shape but cleaned it and reattached it anyways.
The last and only thing I have not checked is the starter. I didn't think this was the problem because the car drove perfectly forever and one day just doesn't start. There were no signs of a solenoid going bad or starting the engine taking a while.
My question. My truck has now lowered the suspension completely, is there a way to raise it back up? as I cannot get any suspension features to work.
Also, is there anyway to get to the starter without having to take the wheel off? I don't have access to it being hoisted up and taking off all the metal shields/etc to get to it. I'd just like to give it a good tap and check some lines around it.
Can I just jack it up? (seems the lowered suspension might be a problem)
Thanks again for the help
I was able to figure our a go around but it involves risk because you are accessing the starter through a loaded suspension component. You put the left front end up on a jack stand (frame), remove the wheel and then partially compress the A-arm (suspension) about halfway through the travel. Once you remove all the aluminum splash/heat guards you will now have room to access the starter and wires by FEEL.
Don't go down the starter route yet. Give the solenoid a bang with a wrench to see if it magically cures it..
In The Fuse Box there is a starter relay if you jump the relay and it cranks that will eliminate the starter , i suspect that you have corroded wire splice under the right front carpet area, area Thanks Nim
Please lift the carpet on the right side and look all the way to the bottom of the a pillar there is a bunch of red wires that splice together check those and let me know what you find the last thing you want to do is replace the starter motor and find out that is not the fault.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
Results from testing the HS CAN
ohm's from pin 6-14 show right at 60 (HS CAN)
ohm's from pin 3-11 show right at 60 (MS CAN)
Before I checked individually the pin 6 and 14, I wanted to know if I should reconnect the battery. I've had a friend using his MM on his audi with the battery connected, and after the third pin, he basically fried the thing.
I don't see a resistance problem here, so does this mean that the HS CAN has not failed?
Just to note, also checked the battery voltage. I charged it yesterday to 100% at autozone, but when I checked the battery voltage is about ~12.2
NIM, I see no presence of water ever being there, but i'll go check out those wires. Also, how does one "jump the relay"?
Also, thanks ktm_525 for the go around to get to the starter. I honestly don't think that's the issue. (and you're right, looking at the LR procedure to replace the starter made me want to just drop everything). If these last couple of things don't solve the problem, then it looks like i'll be using your method to replace the starter
ohm's from pin 6-14 show right at 60 (HS CAN)
ohm's from pin 3-11 show right at 60 (MS CAN)
Before I checked individually the pin 6 and 14, I wanted to know if I should reconnect the battery. I've had a friend using his MM on his audi with the battery connected, and after the third pin, he basically fried the thing.
I don't see a resistance problem here, so does this mean that the HS CAN has not failed?
Just to note, also checked the battery voltage. I charged it yesterday to 100% at autozone, but when I checked the battery voltage is about ~12.2
NIM, I see no presence of water ever being there, but i'll go check out those wires. Also, how does one "jump the relay"?
Also, thanks ktm_525 for the go around to get to the starter. I honestly don't think that's the issue. (and you're right, looking at the LR procedure to replace the starter made me want to just drop everything). If these last couple of things don't solve the problem, then it looks like i'll be using your method to replace the starter
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 831
Likes: 146
From: Herndon, VA
I can't speak from personal experience with the LR, but would a starter failure cause the christmas tree of lights that he's experiencing? Also, have you attempted the tried and true method of banging on the starter with a wrench or long stake, then attempting to start? 
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Drifting
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
Unfortunately, I have tried that already. I don't think it is the starter because the car drove more than perfect. Then one day I go out and it doesn't start with the fault codes. Never once did it crank for a bit or make clicking sounds before it started. Those would suggest the solenoid is stuck/going bad etc. For a starter to just give out overnight seems highly unlikely.
That's why its the last thing on my list I want to try and fix haha. Thanks for the suggestion though. Most times, we LR owners often look for the complex problems.
That's why its the last thing on my list I want to try and fix haha. Thanks for the suggestion though. Most times, we LR owners often look for the complex problems.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
Also, forgot to mention. When I turn the key over nothing happens at all, but I can here the click of the relay coming from the passenger side/footwell area. I don't know if this helps at all, but just thought I'd throw that out there.
I plugged in the OBD II scanner and these are the codes it pulled.
U0100
Lost Communication with Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module "A" -Confirmed
U0100
Lost Communication with Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module "A" -Pending
U0122
Lost Communication with Vehicle Dynamic Control Module- Pending
I plugged in the OBD II scanner and these are the codes it pulled.
U0100
Lost Communication with Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module "A" -Confirmed
U0100
Lost Communication with Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module "A" -Pending
U0122
Lost Communication with Vehicle Dynamic Control Module- Pending
Last edited by mcvayrover; Jul 28, 2014 at 01:07 PM. Reason: Added pics
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 37
Resistance being correct means that the physical side of the network is in tact(the wiring itself is not O/C) but there can still be a module bringing it down. I don't think you're communicating with the PCM, and those faults are stored in the TCM, which has a separate diagnostic line to the DLC.
You can check this by disconnecting the MAFS, and checking faults, you should have some more(P010x / P011x)
For voltage check, yes, battery hooked up, and key on, check each pin to ground.
If lack of PCM communications is confirmed(along with resistance/voltage of the network in spec) I would start looking at the PCM, connector and power/ground.
You can check this by disconnecting the MAFS, and checking faults, you should have some more(P010x / P011x)
For voltage check, yes, battery hooked up, and key on, check each pin to ground.
If lack of PCM communications is confirmed(along with resistance/voltage of the network in spec) I would start looking at the PCM, connector and power/ground.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
Just checked, and all voltage seems to be extremely accurate to what it should be. I also disconnected the MAFS and there were no extra codes that were brought up. Seems you have found part of the problem right there!
So there is definitely a lack of PCM communication since everything else is up to network specs. I'll start on the connector and power/ground right now and take a look at the PCM itself.
Thank you so much!
So there is definitely a lack of PCM communication since everything else is up to network specs. I'll start on the connector and power/ground right now and take a look at the PCM itself.
Thank you so much!