I swapped it with another one under the hood. I also forgot to mention, I took needle nose pliers and slightly bent the ends of the fuses on #27 and #13 just incase they weren't making contact with the pins inside the fuse box.

Now here is the issue. I just drove it all around. In automatic, it will not shift out of first gear at all. It will just rev up. No lights or warnings at all.

I put it in sport mode and can drive the car like normal. Every gear shifts perfectly normal. What could be the culprit of this?

(3,000 miles ago I had my transmission fluid and oil pan changed along with a new Transmission control module (a seal was leaking fluid and fried the TCM)

 

So... that begs the question: which relay did you swap it with? If the immobilizer relay was bad you may have moved it to something else having to do with the transmission. Let us know which position you swapped it to, or else just go buy a new relay and replace the original immobilizer relay with the new one.

 

I simply switched relay 13 with the one to left, relay 12. I don't think that has anything to do with the transmission.

I also earlier switch R6 and R7 a few days ago

 

Also, putting the car into any special program mode, the car shifts automatically just fine. I'm just having an issue when it's in normal mode and I'm drive

 

Check your brake lights, with the headlights both on and off, also make sure that all of your tires are the same size, and inflated properly.

Also, I apologize, those other relays I asked you to swap before were not correct, that was the ignition relay, relay 6 is the main relay that supplies power to the PCM.

 

I think swapping the ignition relay is what actually made the car turn back on! I switched relay 6 out a few days ago to rule out the PCM as I discovered it was receiving power and tested the relay itself with a multi meter for resistance.

Thanks again! I think my car needs a lot of the software upgrades. It being a 2005 and didn't seemed to be serviced often at a Land Rover dealership (as there's only one in the state of AR)

 

LOL. You've got some bizarre electrical gremlins here. I guess all the fancy electronics on the LR3 are fantastic... until they're not. I would agree that's it probably not a relay issue then. I know you said you did a hard reset earlier, but have you tried it since swapping the relays? Might want to give it another go. Do you have any sort of tool that allows you to clear the transmission adaptation values? That's kind of a long shot, but you never know what might have gotten screwed up.

 

I definitely do haha. Now that I can at least drive it, I think I'm going to go to the dealership.

I was thinking exactly the same way, so I did a hard reset, then a soft reset this morning after all of the work to see if that would clear everything up. It did stop any fault from appearing now no matter what. So now its back to a blank dashboard for good.

I will be driving it in sport mode this week to get get it diagnosed and get another set of eyes to find and solve the problem. I'll update when I find anything out.

Thanks again for everything!

 

Roverguy7 pointed me to this thread this morning, exactly the same "christmas tree" problems as I'm facing with my 2006 RRS HSE. Thanks to everyone, I'll soon be up and running.

I wanted to add that worn/corroded gearshift linkage is a problem that I'm having, been driving around for the last several weeks in Sport mode without problem. In normal Drive mode I'm having sluggish gearshifts and outright failure to launch at stoplights.

 

Mine looks like HS CAN Bus:

Resistance Readings
3-11 62.5
6-14 121
4&5 0

Voltage Readings

3 2.66V
11 2.33V
6 2.49V
14 1.03V

Pulled out the DLC to confirm the correct pin/wire colors.

Think I'll open the TCM next.