The HS CAN does not go through any other modules between the engine ECU and the Terrain Response ECU. There are branches off of it, but those will not cause high resistance on the wire(or lack of the 120 ohm if checking high to low sides)

There are two connectors in line however, and Where as I haven't seen a communication issue caused by either, I have seen both have corrosion issues.

The large grey connector inside the center console, and a green connector located behind the RH lower A-pillar trim(I believe there are two green ones, check based on wire color, or find the connector reference for C2244L)

 

My troubleshooting with a VMM led me finally to the front passenger floorboard area, looking for that very connector. I pulled up the carpet and the door sill, to follow the YB/YN pair up toward the CJB.

There I found a kink in the YN wire. In the process of smoothing the kink realized there was only the insulation there, pulled on the the cable and it came apart in a shower of green dust. It is my belief that it got snagged by one of those little metal clips that hold down the door sill plate.

A little solder and heat shrink tubing fixed that right up.

Thanks roverguy7, can't imagine how many hours this would've taken at Land Rover.

 

Excellent news!

This may be a hassle for you(probably less so then what you've been through finding the problem) but if you wouldn't mind posting some of the steps you went through, and what your end result was, up on the other forum where this started, as a lot of L320 owners would not find this thread(or even click the link to it)

Also, did it look like the harness has been repaired previously? The CAN pair should be towards the center of the harness from the factory, to help prevent this very issue.

 

Glad you found it and now that you mention the "solution" it rings bells as being something discussed a few times maybe not for your exact symptoms - bbyer may remember better than me where and why....

 

Yeah, I've seen several issues with those clips rubbing through wires in the door sill, however this is the first time I've heard of the clip picking out the can bus.

 

Roverguy7 was right, my Land Rover dealer had gone through that bundle of wires before, soldering some wires together.

If l reflect on the HS Bus Troubleshooting, I did learn a lot about the vehicle. I'll take some pictures and post something to give back to the community. Thanks All!

 

I'm having a similar issue, only the shop tells me my fuse box has melted. I had changed the battery and replaced the brake light switch based on previous recommendations in forums and still nothing. The amber lights did go off and the car won't crank at all. I've never heard of a fuse box melting and he's telling me this could be about $3500 to fix with the part and labor.

 

Transfer case ecu is located behind the battery, check for corrosion due to water leaking on top of connector.
Check with scanner and see what module is offline could be a fault with the can bus line.
I have also seen instrument cluster caused no start happen to me five times already.
Also check wiring under sill panel on left and right side.
There is the main fuse box and the central junction box (cjb) which fuse box he is talking about.
(Note when fuse box is melted usually there is a heavy current draw you will need to find that and rectify it ) also let him perform a voltage drop test on the vehicle grounding circuit. if you need more info nim@nveuromotor.com and i will try and help thanks Nim

 

Thanks. At this point I want to get it back in my garage so I can check out the other possibilities. He's talking about the fuse box by the battery. I checked fuses as an initial look and didn't notice anything unusual in the fuse box. Fuses looked fine but I was looking at the top and not checking wire side so I really don't know if he's being honest or guessing.
I am worried that if it is replaced the same issue will pop up because a fuse box doesn't just melt with some other issue. At this point I'm getting more upset because he told me he'd call but I haven't heard a peep. I can't authorize $3500. Is this something I could do myself? Decently mechanically inclined but electrical is a whole nother world

 

NIM's reply above is right on the money. The TCCM is located below the windshield which was a really bad idea as water will run right into it. I would seriously look at the connectors to gage if any water has made its way in.