I appreciate the effort you are making recording and posting all the work you are doing - it is a major effort - nothing is simple or easy.

 

The thermostat housing is known for cracking, I'm on my third. It is recommended to replace it with the entire crossover assembly, as they split as well. It comes complete, with the thermostat.

Keep up the great work!

 

I have an 05 with the same brush guard and lights. I took off the covers, started the engine, turned on the lights, and hit the light 2 button and noticed that they do not turn on. I haven't investigated yet. Could it be that they were put on for show? That would suck, but then, why does the light 2 button light up?

 

I believe if they were wired correctly, then they should only come on if you have the button depressed and turn your high beams on.

 

Installed a set of britpart waterproof front seat covers from lucky 8, fit pretty good, a little loose for my taste but should make the wife happy since she hates leather seats, they are a decent weight canvas and just Velcro on

 

NAV THREAD https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...stalled-73007/

 

I believe that they should work ONLY if the high beams are on, despite the light. I couldn't figure out how the circuit worked exactly with a multimeter, but that is how they worked. The light lights up to alert you they are enabled.

 

Actually they work ONLY when the high beams are on.

 

This is the best explanation of the hookup of the driving lights that I have found. The wiring diagrams a few posts down are excellent.

Overland Journal Project Land Rover Discovery 4 (LR4) - Page 5 - Expedition Portal

 

Yes, the driving lights should be wired so that they only come on when the high beams are also on.

That wiring diagram provided by bbyer is a great one and it's what I used when hooking my switch up. I did have a difficult time understanding it at first until I realized that the LR light switch actually switches the ground, not the hot wire. Basically, when you depress the button, it connects pins 1 and 4 together to energize the relay. If I remember correctly, pin 5 is simply to provide power to light up the top indicator on the switch when it's depressed and pins 2 and 3 provide dimming and illuminating of the little light "drawing" on the switch itself.

However, if you wire your switch like this diagram, the switch (and your lights) will be operational any time the button is depressed while your ignition is on. If you would rather hook them up so that the lights can only be operated in conjunction with the high beams, then you need to find the appropriate high beam signaling wire in the bundle coming from the light stalk on the steering wheel column and either:
1. If it's a neutral wire, splice into it and run it into pin 1 of the switch instead of simply grounding pin 1 to the car chassis.
OR 2. If it's a hot wire, splice into it and run it to pin 85 of the relay instead of taking power from the lighter socket.

I honestly can't remember which the high beam wire is... positive or negative, but the LR wiring diagrams should tell you that in the RAVE manual.

The other dilemma I dealt with was wondering whether I wanted the lights to come on only when I turned my high beams on, or if I also wanted them to come on when I flashed my high beams. Ultimately, I decided that I didn't care about the flashing aspect. However, if you want them to come on in both situations, then I think you need to solder some diodes into your circuit.