I found this site that looks like it may lead to a solution for the LR# under charging issue. If anyone on here knows their electronics, please take a look and tell us if this is a viable option and if it can be made into a module that can be integrated with out too much electronics knowledge.


SmartGauge Electronics - Increasing alternator charge voltages

 

I think this is a bad idea....

 

Can you elaborate why?


I understand a lot of problems with our trucks are due to the alternators not fully charging the batteries and voltage issues appearing.


I know electronics like I know nuclear physics but I was hoping to get an idea from someone better versed in the black arts, if the proposed idea had merit...

 

It's been many moons since got my electronics degrees and I haven't actually used them professionally in about 2 decades. So don't take me as an expert.

The basic idea is sound and should work as indicated. At least with a traditional alternator. The potential problem is the LR3 (and likely many modern vehicles) does not have a traditional alternator with a fixed regulator. It's load sensing. The regulator varies the output from mid 13s to mid 14s. Doing this would, in theory, change that from say a low of 14v to about 15v. And while it is possible to charge some batteries at 15v, it's not something you'd want to do for long or you'd over-charge and cook the battery. The handful of smart chargers that do reach those voltages don't stay there indefinitely, they back the voltage down as acceptance is reached.

If you were running an '85 Chevy then go for it and maybe it will help. Of course your 'vintage' rig probably wouldn't care to much about voltage anyway. Something like the LR3 which is more voltage sensitive (though perhaps not as much as some would have you believe - I've seen them run below 12v) is just as likely to respond poorly to over-voltage as it is to under-voltage.

In short, it's a pretty complicated system and I'd hesitate to attempt a simple hack like this. There's little to be gained and an awful lot of very expensive electronics to put at risk.

 

My elaboration would've looked a lot like Don's last sentence. I'd say you're better off getting a new alternator (OEM) if it's necessary and also getting an AGM battery.

 

I'm not convinced an AGM battery is the answer for daily driver type rigs. AGMs typically want a slightly different charge profile than a standard sealed flooded battery. AGMs are more vibration tolerant, won't leak if damaged, don't out-gas, and generally offer good deep cycle characteristics. But if you're not running a lot of house loads I wouldn't automatically recommend one as a default. They are good for certain needs and I do run one (NorthStar group 31) but not the answer to every question.

 

I can't argue, I don't know much about it. I understood that they hold their charge better, though, particularly when they sit for long periods of time.

 

This is true, an AGM has a lower self-discharge rate than a standard flooded battery. However that shouldn't be an issue on any vehicle that sees even semi-regular use. You have more to worry about with parasitic losses when the battery is in a vehicle like the LR3, and even with an AGM if I were laying it up for a long time (say a month +) I'd consider a battery tender or similar maintenance charger.

 

Do you have a meter to check batt voltage after sitting overnight to see if it's good and being charged properly?
......

 

I drive my LR3, on average, about every 10 days. Sometimes that's just for the sake of using it....I have a short commute (I walk or ride usually) and we have another vehicle or two. My Interstate batteries were getting low non-charged readings and causing nuisance faults...even after just 6 months of use. That is what led me to go AGM.