Rear HVAC evaporator drain.

 

Ok, next question. Swapping out the compressor for AMK kit, I understand the decupling screws that come with it are self-tapping, I see specific instructions for mounting the temperature sensor, however, no screw is supplied and can't find any literature from supplier. Any suggestions/guidance? I'm assuming it will be the same size as the self-tapping mounting screw M6x12?

 

I have absolutely no clue what you are talking about. The swap is just a swap. The only thing that needs work are the inlet/exhaust lines for the compressor which would also include a new mount platform. I know nothing that needs self-taping screws?

 

The screw where the arrow points.

The only place I can find reference to it is on the 4 & 5th post here https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic84165-195.html.

 

I think you are getting things messed up. The screw with the arrow would already be installed, not even sure what that is about and makes no sense anyway. I never had to do anything like that. And the forum you linked it talking about how the mousing mounts to the platform/mount that the compressor sits in. The Hitachi mount and AMK are very different. The Hitachi one as you see is a cast metal but the AMK one will be bent aluminum. And it seems they are describing how the housing, the black upper and lower shells, attach to the AMK bracket/mount. When you convert to AMK you need to get the compressor, mount and housing since they are not the same as Hitachi.

 

Not sure why, but it didn't come with the wire installed and no screw to install it, I'll call tomorrow to see why that is. I found a M6x12 that would work and installed everything. Compressor seems to be running fine and lifted to normal ride height, test drive went great. Don't see any leaks so I'm going to let it sit overnight with the fuse pulled and see what happens.

Thank you very much for your expertise and guidance, it was greatly appreciated. Hopefully this resolves the suspension issue and I can tackle the next fix.

 

Dang'it .. spoke too soon. Looks like the front has already dropped a lot. Rears seems to be ok so far.

 

Yeah..... but progress nonetheless.

 

You are hopefully knocking out a list of issues, 1 thing at a time

Next stop - rebuild front valve block if you have not yet (new o-ring kit)
Also grab an inspection mirror and spray the top VOSS connector on each front strut

If you see bubbles, you will need to replace that o-ring (or entire connector)
Unfortunately the fronts can not be snugged up in place and need to lower the strut to access
(Rears can fit a wrench in place, w/o dropping strut)

At the ages of these vehicles, EAS sealy bits are likely near end of life
and a methodical re-fresh is beneficial - and necessary

 

Thanks Doug. Yep, slowly but surely, I'm working my way through the EAS. New front valve block arrived this morning, but I have o-ring kit to attempt refresh on the existing block to keep as a backup. You wouldn't happen to have the instruction pdf for replacing the o-rings would you? Mine did not come with it. Also, I've read about waiting a bit after either a compressor swap or dryer rebuild, so any dessicant residue can blow through without contaminating a new block. Is there a time frame or number of cycles recommended, or is there a way to blow the lines out properly without introducing moisture?