So I have had the lr3 for a month now and it is great, Ok a little better that great this thing is awesome. I just replaced the tires wit 255/60/18 Pirelli ATR’s. It drive great, has good power. I like it.

Now the bad, in the month every now and then I would get the “suspension fault” dash indication. Everything still works. I can still raise on lower the vehicle to off road or entry mode. Shutting the truck down and restarting would clear the error and everything is good for a few more days.
Well this two weeks ago I took the LR3 on a road trip from Austin to Lubbock (375 miles). It seems like that the error will come on after about an hour of driving. Again cycle the system and you are error free for another hour. So nothing “major” is broken. Yet.

I then took it hunting out in San Angelo (195 miles) same about 1 hour then the error. Once at the ranch I was driving around in off road height I received the "Vehicle Raising Slowly". I rolled the windows down while driving in off road height. I could hear what sounded like a small air leak on when I would hit a bump in the road. Just a small “psst”

So I guess the real reason is does anyone have a scanner in the Austin area. I am leaving and going to Louisiana later this week and kind of want to take a look at it.

I a mechanically inclined and have worked on everything from little red wagons to f-16’s and my previous ride was a 99 f250. So no stranger to a busted knuckle or two.

 

Read the adjacent thread on the 2.5 inch lift tricks. Within, you will see a post I have there with links to a number of files you may find of value.

Pay particular attention to the bit about pulling the F26E fuse in the engine compartment fuse box.

This will result in the air compressor shutting off and all the block valves closing as well. As such, one of the corners on your 3 will drop fairly quickly I expect. That will help you as to where the problem is.

It may be a leak in one of the air spring bladders - not the end of the world, but you will earn your skinned knuckles by the time you get it replaced; or perhaps in nearly air lines.

Also read about the Voss air line fittings as you will be introduced to them if you remove the bladder or pretty much anything to do with the air system.

The Voss filttings are not your average Parker fitting but you may have run into the style on the F16's.

There is a lot of Ford design in the LR3 so the F250 experience will be a big help - that and BMW.

 

Bbyer
I just read the entire thread you wrote on the battery terminal and 2.5 lift. I am planning on pulling the fuse when I leave work today. I have seen similar fitting to voss. Is there any trick to trouble shooting this, besides soap and water in a spray bottle?
On the voss connectors, is there a specific way that the come apart? I am thinking that it is a line problem. My theory is that if it is the bladder it would be a constant leak, if it is a line. Then it is sealed now, but when the suspension moves it lets a little are out at a time. But that my theory, and I am wrong often

 

It was 22Dirty that should get the credit for starting the 2.5" lift thread; I just added a couple of posts with the fuse links etc.

I would say that there are two types of Voss connectors in the 3.

One kind found primarily on the air compressor and is the type where you press a surrounding ring inwards, (assuming there is no dirt or a locking collar to make the pressing in impossible), and then one pulls outwards on the air line. This is a fairly common type of connector and even Parker makes them. One can reinsert an air line again and all should seal.

The Voss fitting going into the top of the air bladder and elsewhere is different. I will not call it single use, but sometimes it is good to have a couple of spares around.

One of the links below has a jpg that should blow up and gives not a bad look at the fitting and more importantly, the cutting ring attached to the air line.

The instructions with it tell you how to install and once the air line is inserted in the air line, cannot be pulled back out - single use in that sense. One however can un-thread the brass fitting from the hole in which it is sitting in and then screw it all back in again. The catch is a new air line means a new fitting.

As to where the leak is, it could be internally within either the front, centre, or rear block valves. I say internally, as one would not detect the leak with soapy water - the air would vent back thru the compressor as it is designed to and you may not detect that. A cracked block valve body would show however or a leak at one of the Voss connectors going into the block valve.

Your best bet is to study the air system line diagram. Once one understands it, the system is simple - compressor makes air, stores it in a tank at +200 psig, air goes either forward or to the rear, or both as required, then left or right, or both until a height sensor(s) tells a block valves orifice(s) to shut. Deflation is the same, but the air goes in reverse.
The air springs themselves normally sit at anywhere from 80 psig to 150 psig when the 3 is parked.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - FASKIT Air Suspension Installation/FASKIT air panel unmounted


This is Land Rover part number RQC000030, the Voss fitting for the axle valve blocks. I think it is a Voss System 203 6mm fitting, Voss part number 5 2 03 11 01 00.

The parts bag comes with the white plug inserted in the brass threaded bit with what is called the brass cutting ring placed on the tip of the white plastic plug. The idea is that one screws, (M10 x 1 thread), the brass insert into the appropriate hole with the white plug still in the brass insert. Once the brass is tight, (12 mm wrench), then the white plug is pulled from the assembly leaving the cutting ring down inside and under. One then pushes in the 6 mm tube end about 20 mm or so and the tube slides down thru the brass cutting ring, (2 internal sloped one way cutting ridges). When the tube is in far enough, one pulls upwards a bit and the ring cuts into the plastic such that the tube will not pull out. To remove tube, one unscrews the brass nut and all comes out, sort of like I have shown with the short piece of 6mm tubing. The white plug is a throwaway item upon install of the tubing.

 

I don't want to pull you in the wrong direction as I did read that you can hear a small air leak when hitting bumps in off road height.

BUT...

When I had a yellow light on for a long time shortly after purchase of my '07, I would occasionally get the "Vehicle raising slowly" message. I had the vehicle scanned and the code that came back was "pressure builds too slowly". I don't know if it was absolutely necessary, but I had the entire compressor replaced at a cost of $1,000 for the part and $300 for labour (amounts in $CAD). It may not be the same issue causing your "vehicle raising slowly" but a scanner MAY be able to narrow your search. Mine was scanned at a local shop where he had access to some 'European makes' software. I have since moved and the local shop here does not have said software. I am currently pondering the 702 from AUTEL seen here:Autel

But if you could find find one on ebay or similar it could save you some money.