I've already slapped on about 800 miles and zero faults or issues. I changed the oil, but used a WIX filter as I couldn't find the K&N or Mobil1 locally. I use Mobil1 Oil vs Castrol, but it is much cheaper at Wal-Mart for sure either way.

Compared to the other LR3's I looked at this was without a doubt the cleanest and most original of them all and a few were all the way at 16K. I think for 10.9K I got a very good LR3. The OEM LR Expedition Rack I got for 600.00 was also a bargain

 

Had the exhaust resonator removed and replaced with straight pipe today. Very nice sounding exhaust note that reminds me of a Jag V8 sports car or a Mercedes Benz. It idles just a little louder than before and you really only hear it when you step on it. Honestly reminds me of a Range Rover Sport Supercharged LR.

 

Good job...Im glad you find a good one. Enjoy it

 

Yeah she's a good one. Sad how many I looked at were not.

The exhaust mod probably isn't something everyone would do, but if you like to hear a V8 it's truly nice. Not at all to loud and no drone. I've just always enjoyed hearing a V8 and the 4.4L sounds unique vs a pushrod V8 like in my older LR's.

I may do a hidden winch mount in the future.

Hey RoverrrGirl, how so you like the OME Coil Spring setup? Any issues with EAS warnings? I had heard some people had issues with the taller OME Kit and EAS Faults. My EAS doesn't leak down in extended mode with the fuse pulled, but in normal mode she'll drop evenly over the weekend (fuse in as I haven't done it in normal mode with fuse pulled). I love the EAS but at the same time I want it to be reliable. Would love to hear how the setup is working for you.

 

Try disconnecting the battery overnight instead of just the relay and see what results you get.

 

Best4x4,
My LR3 had a bad compressor that clogged the lines and messed up the Modules...I did the Fuse pulled thing trying to diagnose and fix the EAS at first but the cost was going to be way over my budget.
The OME kit looks great. The Module that comes with it clears the susp. faults in 5 minutes.
I chose not to hard wire the Module (option at set up) therefore the red susp. light is on but No dings nor warning sounds. Its a fairly straight forward install and very simple to program. I still have the off road options etc..
The OME will make the truck sit 2" higher so the 4 ride control levels will need to be disconnected ...I did and sealed the plugs nicely to protect them from mud/water.
Best of All NO MORE drops to bump stops Nor worries
My LR3 has been very reliable since.
Cheers

 

Cool thanks for the info guys!

 

Sure

 

@Best4x4 if you are going to wheel your LR3 I'd suggest keeping the EAS.

 

8-22-16 Update:

I removed the front valve block and tore it apart. I found debris inside the needle sized hole in the center valve. I didn't have that much white residue, but I wiped down all the o-rings, and valve assemblies. Put it all back together started the LR3 and I was presented with a battery light...... (I did find my wife left the RR door partially open). I connected my scangauge II and it was going from 12.9v to 13.5v so I figured the alternator was charging. Metered the battery with the LR3 off and I had 12.6v. I decided to take it for a drive and after about 8 miles the battery light went off and the scangauge II jumped from 13.4/13.5v to 13.8-14.1v. The battery is less than a year old, but I'm guessing with the door open the computer was active a lot more than every 6HR and it drained it just enough to make the Engine computer make it idle high. Once I shut it off/on after the light went off the idle was normal.

However the air suspension has not dropped nose first like it was doing. Next step I'm going to do is replace the silca beads in the dryer. Besides that everything else seems good to go. That valve block was a breeze to mess with vs the P38 RR days!