New (to me) 2006 LR3. What am I in for?
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 72
Likes: 2
From: Radford, VA
New (to me) 2006 LR3. What am I in for?
I just purchased a 2006 LR3 with approximately 105k miles. I plan on driving it around town and using it to go to my in law's house with our dogs and new baby (approximately 240 miles each way). Currently, I have a brake sensor light on (brakes seems fine), besides that, no other issues. In preparation for being a Land Rover owner again, I have purchased the AAA platinum package. A few questions from you lovely folks before we head out of town tomorrow morning on an 8 hour trip.
1. What do I need to be prepared for (common faults)?
2. Any common faults that will leave me on the side of the road?
3. What preventative maintenance do you all recommend at this point?
I keep hearing the LR3 is more reliable than my Disco, I hope it is true. I would like to get 200k out of this truck.
1. What do I need to be prepared for (common faults)?
2. Any common faults that will leave me on the side of the road?
3. What preventative maintenance do you all recommend at this point?
I keep hearing the LR3 is more reliable than my Disco, I hope it is true. I would like to get 200k out of this truck.
1. Control arms water intrusion, and general maintenance
2.Get a GAP IID tool currently sub $500 to your door at Lucky8 if you email miker@lk8parts.com
there is very little that leaves you stranded in these.
3. Do the fluids and filters check the brake pads
2.Get a GAP IID tool currently sub $500 to your door at Lucky8 if you email miker@lk8parts.com
there is very little that leaves you stranded in these.
3. Do the fluids and filters check the brake pads
Last edited by ArmyRover; Oct 11, 2019 at 10:12 AM.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 4,995
Likes: 962
From: Green Bay, WI
^ Ditto to all that.
To elaborate, check for water issues by pulling the plastic rocker covers/door sills and then the carpet. Feel for wetness. There are three common water entry points. 1 - sunroof drain tube ends, they rot and fall off due to poor design and the drain water simply enters right into the cabin. 2 - Exterior a-pillar trim. those plastic black plastic things bookending the windshield. Again a poor design with built-in water holes. So water getting behind the trim can get into the cabin. $20 fix. 3 - Windshield cowl - oh look, another poor design. The issue is it warps and then copious amounts of water can get behind the cowl piece. Normally, not an issue, but someone thought it would be nice to have the cabin intake port extend past the drip edge. So water gets behind then can get into the intake "bowl". If this happens the filter gets very wet and your HVAC airflow drops. Even with a new cowl one should install some sorta of deflector for water. I had to. Note: One sign of water entry issues is a finicky remote that may or may not lock/unlock the doors.
Controls arms, specifically the front lowers, have bushings that wear out around 70,000 miles. There is a chance yours has already had then replaced. Mine where dealer done at 70,000 miles and are still good at 135,000 but I will be buying ALL new suspension stuff this winter. If they are bad you usually hear some knocking when going over bumps. Its not a dangerous issue really. They can be a huge pain to replace because the bolts rust inside the bushing.
If you have a rear locking diff, replace with the proper fluid unless you know for a fact it was serviced with the correct fluid. You need Castrol BOT 720. There are many different fluids through the years for the rear diff with most no longer made, BOT 720 is compatible with the carbon clutch plates. Regular locking diff fluids will not work.
Other things off note:
Allegedly a rear brake light lamp failure can cause the world to end and kittens to die. The car will supposedly drop to its bumps and all advanced traction stuff will go offline. So bring spare lamps. Same goes for the brake switch, you can get a Ford equivalent for much less than an LR boxed one. I keep a spare switch in the glove box.
If there seems to be performance issues, like a slightly rough idle, etc. You may simply need to clean the throttle body. Easy, cheap. Pretty much the first thing that should be done for any engine issues.
BIG ONE - There is a fitting above the throttle body for coolant. A "T" fitting with a valve. Its for bleeding. They break, always. If going on a trip replace it now with at least a simple straight brass ****** coupling and a couple hose clamps. If it goes not only could you be stranded but you could kill the engine. You will have to pull up the beauty cover (7mm captive nuts, maybe 6mm?) to see the fitting. As long as we are discussing coolant, the "t-stat housing" is a large plastic part that coolant flows through. Houses the t-stat, sensors, etc. Top center. They can crack and leak. Replace with OEM only! $100 gets you a new one with new sensors and t-stat already installed. Usually does not leak enough to strand you.
And there is the air ride (EAS). Thats for another thread but is generally a very reliable system when maintained.
To elaborate, check for water issues by pulling the plastic rocker covers/door sills and then the carpet. Feel for wetness. There are three common water entry points. 1 - sunroof drain tube ends, they rot and fall off due to poor design and the drain water simply enters right into the cabin. 2 - Exterior a-pillar trim. those plastic black plastic things bookending the windshield. Again a poor design with built-in water holes. So water getting behind the trim can get into the cabin. $20 fix. 3 - Windshield cowl - oh look, another poor design. The issue is it warps and then copious amounts of water can get behind the cowl piece. Normally, not an issue, but someone thought it would be nice to have the cabin intake port extend past the drip edge. So water gets behind then can get into the intake "bowl". If this happens the filter gets very wet and your HVAC airflow drops. Even with a new cowl one should install some sorta of deflector for water. I had to. Note: One sign of water entry issues is a finicky remote that may or may not lock/unlock the doors.
Controls arms, specifically the front lowers, have bushings that wear out around 70,000 miles. There is a chance yours has already had then replaced. Mine where dealer done at 70,000 miles and are still good at 135,000 but I will be buying ALL new suspension stuff this winter. If they are bad you usually hear some knocking when going over bumps. Its not a dangerous issue really. They can be a huge pain to replace because the bolts rust inside the bushing.
If you have a rear locking diff, replace with the proper fluid unless you know for a fact it was serviced with the correct fluid. You need Castrol BOT 720. There are many different fluids through the years for the rear diff with most no longer made, BOT 720 is compatible with the carbon clutch plates. Regular locking diff fluids will not work.
Other things off note:
Allegedly a rear brake light lamp failure can cause the world to end and kittens to die. The car will supposedly drop to its bumps and all advanced traction stuff will go offline. So bring spare lamps. Same goes for the brake switch, you can get a Ford equivalent for much less than an LR boxed one. I keep a spare switch in the glove box.
If there seems to be performance issues, like a slightly rough idle, etc. You may simply need to clean the throttle body. Easy, cheap. Pretty much the first thing that should be done for any engine issues.
BIG ONE - There is a fitting above the throttle body for coolant. A "T" fitting with a valve. Its for bleeding. They break, always. If going on a trip replace it now with at least a simple straight brass ****** coupling and a couple hose clamps. If it goes not only could you be stranded but you could kill the engine. You will have to pull up the beauty cover (7mm captive nuts, maybe 6mm?) to see the fitting. As long as we are discussing coolant, the "t-stat housing" is a large plastic part that coolant flows through. Houses the t-stat, sensors, etc. Top center. They can crack and leak. Replace with OEM only! $100 gets you a new one with new sensors and t-stat already installed. Usually does not leak enough to strand you.
And there is the air ride (EAS). Thats for another thread but is generally a very reliable system when maintained.
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 72
Likes: 2
From: Radford, VA
OK. I got back safely from the 600+ mile journey and the truck performed excellently. My only gripe now is getting 15 MPG average. I feel like my Disco got 20 MPG on highway. I'm getting like 13-14 around town and 15-16 on the highway. I doing 80 the whole though.
Than you all so much. You've been incredibly helpful.
Than you all so much. You've been incredibly helpful.
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