Two weeks ago I purchased a new to me 119k miles 2005 LR3 HSE, 4.4l.
I got every conceivable record for it since 57k miles when the last owner purchased it.
He performed all necessary services and plenty of repairs. The truck drives like a new car. WOW.... it is extremely clean. Even the engine bay, with covers off

I have read every thread I have been able to find on the what appears to be a shared experience by many. My LR3 when driven cold at low speeds around 25-35mph, has this engine pulsing, surging but very slight. The tachometer bounces 100rpms or so. I feel a pulling and coasting behavior. This lasts for what I have observed 10-20 minutes. Once fully warm the behavior is totally gone.

The truck has new plugs, clean MAF, clean throttle body, clean PCV, new battery. I tested the alternator and was told it was fine.

Thank you in advance for your feedback. I am looking forward to the next 5-10 years driving this truck. I drives better than my 2013 Silverado I had for a year.

Cheers

Her is a picture.

 

I have this behavior too when I start from cold and go a few blocks from home. I have always attributed it to the drive train and fluids in tranny, t case, diffs being cold. Will do a transmission flush and a new filter/pan at some point soon but try that if you have the budget for it. Couldn't hurt and I would say its something the truck should get between 75k-150k

 

Thanks for the reply. Please keep me posted.

My records show the Trans Fluid was flushed mid 2014, pan was not changed. I spoke with a dealer and they recommend I drop the pan replacing it with a new one and flush it that way.
They said the pan holds the filter for the trans. I was quoted $1100 for the job. Did you get a quote?

Cheers

 

if the fluid was flushed then they should have dropped and swapped the pan/filter, so that's annoying if they did not do that on yours.

You are correct the filter is part of the pan. That sounds about right on price, the lowest I ever heard was $750, I was recently quoted around $1400. I will probably source the parts myself but pay dealer the labor rate to do it. Try and talk them down if you know them, and at the very least make sure that price includes them changing the sleeve out (apparently they wear down and leak or something, and its a no brainer to change when changing pan).

Parts are:
LR007474 (pan)
TZV500010 (sleeve)
LRN13754 (fluid)

If you're handy with a wrench there has been a few guys here that did their trannies without having to jack the engine up or remove the cross-beam. That would probably save you $1k. I'll report back on this thread when I manage to get mine done.

 

Thank you for the feedback and the parts numbers. What is the sleeve?
I have been known to handle a wrench. But I thought the exhaust pipes need to come out?

 

The sleeve as was described to me holds electronics? Not entirely sure. If I was doing the job myself I would probably skip that part unless you have a leak or something. It seems to be one of those things the dealer just suggests adding, maybe just peace of mind. If you aren't the one doing it its just a $20 or so extra.

As for the job, I don't believe you need to remove parts of the exhaust, maybe move them a bit. Youtube has a few videos on this subject. Looking over the maintenance manuals, it does look like a pretty involved job however.

 

Under my engine cover I found something I do not recognize... please see the pic. What do you think the brass fitting is? I found it right between the EGR valve and the throttle body.

Thanks

 

That's the coolant bleed valve (tee). The OEM one is plastic, so the previous owner must have "upgraded" it to a brass one. That's a good thing. It's one of the first things that broke for me and left my coolant all over the road.

As for the surging, I'm not sure what's going on. I have a RR as well with the earlier 5 speed ZF transmission and I know that people often complain about getting a surging between 35 and 55 mph (or so) even when they keep the accelerator pedal at one position. This is often attributed to a failing torque converter and the surging is simply the converter locking and unlocking repeatedly when it is supposed to be locked up. I doubt that's the case at the speeds you're talking about though.

 

Who's got the specs on that brass fitting?

Size? Good source, etc?

Please and thank you.

 

So I used my wifi ODB2 reader to capture driving data.
I was able to import it to Scan XL.

These graphs capture what I am experiencing when surging as I described on the OP.
Does anyone know how to read these graphs?

For some reason all readings are in celsius and km/h. I was doing 25mph during this time and the RPMs were jumping between 1356 and 1412. All I can gather is my spark advance fluctuating and its deeps correspond with the surge and the rpm bounce I mentioned.

Please let me know, thank you in advance.