Newbie seeking advice re: Parking Brake fault and Normal Height Suspension Faults
Quick background is that I've owned our LR3 just over a month now and already I'm starting to loath it. Our one-owner "cream puff" has cost me $3,000+ right out of the gate with no end in sight. Hoping this forum can offer some advice on a few specific issues.
First is a parking brake fault. I knew our truck needed rear brakes so I did them myself with quality parts from British Atlantic. Followed Banksy's brake bible to the tee and had everything tip top. Approximately 150 miles later and 45 minutes from home, the rear caliper hung up. Since we were at the start of an 800 mile road trip, my only choice was to go to the local chain tire and brake shop. They found the front inner pads were shot too and ended up replacing 3 of the 4 rotors as well as all pads.
Fast forward to a week after our road trip and approximately 1,700 miles later and I go to set the parking brake only to hear a horrible, grinding noise. I bring it back to the chain store and without even taking a wheel off, they cite my parking actuator motor as being shot and needing replacement. After doing some reading on the forums and putting two and two together, I think they completely botched or ignored the necessary parking brake adjustment and that my parking brake pads were rubbing for 1,700+ miles without me knowing. I think that now when I'm trying to engage the P brake, the actuator is reaching the end of it's travel due to worn pads.
Second issue is a 'Suspension Fault: Normal Height Only" warning light. It started less frequently but is now coming on every time we drive the truck, usually after about a minute or so tops. I can hear the compressor working that whole time. I've read a variety of forums and best I can tell, the likely culprit is a worn compressor. What scares me is that a lot of what I've read suggests that compressors usually don't just burn out and that usually a leak is involved.
Given that the local, no-good Rover independent service shop quoted me almost $1,500 to replace the compressor, I'd rather try this one myself and see what happens.
The rear end of the truck also sounds like it's clunking over bigger bumps now. Is that an indication that he suspension is under pressurized?
I'd like to order a compressor asap and would love it if anyone had any suggestions for a good price on one.
Thanks for reading.
First is a parking brake fault. I knew our truck needed rear brakes so I did them myself with quality parts from British Atlantic. Followed Banksy's brake bible to the tee and had everything tip top. Approximately 150 miles later and 45 minutes from home, the rear caliper hung up. Since we were at the start of an 800 mile road trip, my only choice was to go to the local chain tire and brake shop. They found the front inner pads were shot too and ended up replacing 3 of the 4 rotors as well as all pads.
Fast forward to a week after our road trip and approximately 1,700 miles later and I go to set the parking brake only to hear a horrible, grinding noise. I bring it back to the chain store and without even taking a wheel off, they cite my parking actuator motor as being shot and needing replacement. After doing some reading on the forums and putting two and two together, I think they completely botched or ignored the necessary parking brake adjustment and that my parking brake pads were rubbing for 1,700+ miles without me knowing. I think that now when I'm trying to engage the P brake, the actuator is reaching the end of it's travel due to worn pads.
Second issue is a 'Suspension Fault: Normal Height Only" warning light. It started less frequently but is now coming on every time we drive the truck, usually after about a minute or so tops. I can hear the compressor working that whole time. I've read a variety of forums and best I can tell, the likely culprit is a worn compressor. What scares me is that a lot of what I've read suggests that compressors usually don't just burn out and that usually a leak is involved.
Given that the local, no-good Rover independent service shop quoted me almost $1,500 to replace the compressor, I'd rather try this one myself and see what happens.
The rear end of the truck also sounds like it's clunking over bigger bumps now. Is that an indication that he suspension is under pressurized?
I'd like to order a compressor asap and would love it if anyone had any suggestions for a good price on one.
Thanks for reading.
I don't agree that a worn compressor means a leak comes with it. If it's old it's old....also, that price is about the same as the dealer would charge around here, so that's not a good deal. If you want to DIY you'll need to load the new software that goes with the AMK compressor. For that you'll need an electronic device capable of doing that.
For the parking brake situation, I'd go to work on that shop that installed the rotors and brakes for you. Tougher to do with indies, in my experience, but they should make it right. That, by the way, is one reason I go to the dealer....they generally don't **** up, but if they do I can feel free to take them to task!
For the parking brake situation, I'd go to work on that shop that installed the rotors and brakes for you. Tougher to do with indies, in my experience, but they should make it right. That, by the way, is one reason I go to the dealer....they generally don't **** up, but if they do I can feel free to take them to task!
I don't agree that a worn compressor means a leak comes with it. If it's old it's old....also, that price is about the same as the dealer would charge around here, so that's not a good deal. If you want to DIY you'll need to load the new software that goes with the AMK compressor. For that you'll need an electronic device capable of doing that.
For the parking brake situation, I'd go to work on that shop that installed the rotors and brakes for you. Tougher to do with indies, in my experience, but they should make it right. That, by the way, is one reason I go to the dealer....they generally don't **** up, but if they do I can feel free to take them to task!
Thanks Erik. Real void for reliable, independent service in the Boston area on north if anyone is looking for a business opportunity. The indy shop I initially went to is booked out weeks ahead, however lacks the down and dirty knowledge I think these vehicles require.
If you are switching from the Hitachi compressor to the AMK, I believe you do need the new software.
$4000 is WAY too much for what you're having done, even at a dealer. Should be in the realm of $2000 if it's just compressor and EPB. If you need new brakes and rotors all the way around too, then I could see it being more.
$4000 is WAY too much for what you're having done, even at a dealer. Should be in the realm of $2000 if it's just compressor and EPB. If you need new brakes and rotors all the way around too, then I could see it being more.
If you are switching from the Hitachi compressor to the AMK, I believe you do need the new software.
$4000 is WAY too much for what you're having done, even at a dealer. Should be in the realm of $2000 if it's just compressor and EPB. If you need new brakes and rotors all the way around too, then I could see it being more.
$4000 is WAY too much for what you're having done, even at a dealer. Should be in the realm of $2000 if it's just compressor and EPB. If you need new brakes and rotors all the way around too, then I could see it being more.
Not having the truck towed from generic tire chain to specialized shop in MA that I'm not thrilled with, but have no choice at this point.
Left rear e brake mechanism is locked up.
May have a Rover with a lot of recent service for sale soon....


