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Hi all, longtime lurker, had a cheap LR4 for a bit before chains went on it and I sold it for parts. Now I've got a cheap 06 LR3 HSE. When I bought it I checked everything with my GAP and everything was functional. I've had the truck 2 weeks and 500 miles and now it says normal height only and the front is sitting on the bumpstops. I did a test valve routine and the front won't raise at all. I'm getting a
-77 value front left, -63 value front right.
And now the dash is saying extended height clear obstacles and reset.
Also there's 2 codes for front left valve failure and front crosslink failure.
I'm just looking for some opinions or knowledge on possible solutions before throwing parts at it. I've been told it could be a height sensor issue.
I assume you cleared the codes and gave it a try? The EAS appears to have an active code system so you can clear when running and it will immediately try to come back online like nothing happened, no truck restart required. So if the faults come back right away, then they are real. So now assuming the faults are real my guess would be a wiring issue to the front valve block, which runs on the driver side wheel well then under the radiator. But one thing I can suggest is to simply peel back the passenger wheel well liner at the front to view the valve block and pull - do not push - on the connector. I had an issue once where I was getting some occasional faults. In my case I had worked on the front valve block but dirt or such has caused the internal rubber weather seal inside the connector (on the harness end) to fold up in a way that even though I thought I plugged the block in, I did not fully. When I discovered this issue it was hell to get to click when plugging in. The seal was messed up. Some light silicone spray on the rubber seal only helped a TON. Although I also ordered a new connector end from Atlantic British, just never installed it yet....
Hey Dakota, yes I've tried to clear the codes, I should also mention the front is sitting on the bump stops and won't raise when I tried to manually air it up in the test valves routine. Everything was fine last week, truck didn't loose air overnight and all the modes worked. There is an invoice for a new compressor about 8k miles ago and on there it says they "examined" the front valve block. Based on your idea of a faulty connection I wonder if the shop didn't connect it properly 🤔. I'll try and investigate.
Check the wire in the wheel well that Dakota described. I had mine shredded a bit from the front tire rubbing it because the clip holding it broke and it was hanging a bit.
An update! After 5 weeks of being lazy and busy and bad weather, I finally got it fixed, the front valve block had failed, all the O rings were shot or almost shot, I elected to just replace the whole block with a new oem one, a local shop installed it for me for cheap so worth it to not work in the rain. Installed and reset the codes and the truck raised up to normal height but it won't go into off road height still but I believe my compressor is shot, previous owner put in a cheap aftermarket I assume Amazon one and I also overheated it twice as the block failed when I wasn't home. So I need a new compressor but I'm just going to drive it until it fails and replace it with a proper Hitachi/amk, not sure what was in it. But just wanted to give an update post, it lives on!
Another update, about a week after my last update it crashed again to the bumpstops, put a new compressor in it, since it wasn't raising at all and it wasn't powering on, still wouldn't raise, so I parked it for a month out of annoyance, and last week had it towed in to a land rover shop, they checked over my work and found the wiring to the front valve block was corroded and exposed and wasn't sending the signal properly, new wiring installed and boom no more lights or codes on the dash, air ride works perfectly, no more sagging overnight. So figured I'd post another update that sometimes it's the wiring that may have an issue as well
Not to thread jack or anything but I have a similar issue but then diagnosed to a weak compressor. So now I'm looking at the compressors.. Would you rather get the arnott/AMK one or the Hitachi? I have read the hitachi's are POS..
I heard amk was better so I ordered that one, but Hitachi is pretty solid too, I'd just avoid the cheap ebay ones they're hit or miss and for me I like My trucks to be dependable so I usually pony up for a quality part, but either or should be fine