I bet this is extremely frustrating. Sorry you're dealing with it. I don't think there's anything wrong not going with an OEM alternator, fwiw.

It could be a bad ecu, but if you have the time and means I would check the sensors and solenoids first.

Here is a video that does a great job showing how to use a scan tool with live data capability to test a sensor. I would show you on my LR3, but it's got the battery out and is all torn down at the moment.

https://youtu.be/Bh4Egn7cmrU

 

My wife wants me to trade it in and get something else. I am not ready for that yet.

I also have a 76 280Z that I am trying to decide what to do with. Replacing injectors and then will decide.

Just checked a few numbers with my multi meter. No load at battery 12.7V, with load (engine, radio and air on) 14.4V. Seems good.

Thanks.

 

Sorry, late to the game here. Guys, I am leaning toward an electrical issue.
I am curious:
Did you check the battery ground cable for corrosion? You really need to remove the battery and unbolt the cable from the body to get a real good look at it.
Did you check the cable from the alternator to see if there is any corrosion?
Did you check the engine to body ground cable?
Is the main 100 amp fuse like discolored?
Can you check the grounding of the ECU, and maybe put die-electric grease on the connector to ensure a proper electrical contact?
How old is the battery?

 

I will surely check these items thanks, Rufflyer.

Not sure if any of this post is relevant but two things to note.

I did notice some corrosion on the positive terminal off the battery.

Also, I started the LR3 up in the garage and idle was around 600-700 with the air off. I turned on the air/fan and the idle immediately went up to 1100. Turned air off and back to 600-700. Off and on with the same results several times. Maybe this is normal not sure.

Thanks for all of the direction.

 

Do you have a traditional lead acid battery or an AGM battery? AGM batteries shouldn't corrode unless the seal around the terminal post breaks somehow.

If I turn on the air you mean the air conditioning, then it is normal for the idle to rise because the AC compressor is engaged.

I'm still stuck on the cam position sensor code. I really wonder if that's the cause of your issues since it runs pretty normal after your reset adaptations.

I'm so jealous that you have a 280z. The S30 has been one of my bucket list cars since I was 12. I've never been able to make it happen, and I'm sort of thinking it likely won't. If I sell my BMW for a two seater it'll be a 987 Porsche Cayman S.

I really hope you get this figured out.

 

I am going to work on some of the suggested items. I would like to replace the camshaft position sensor. Just a question on if I should use a OEM part or does it really matter.

Thanks.

 

I'd say at this point always use OEM. Otherwise you will wonder if it's the part or ...?

 

I thought I posted this previously; however, my battery warning light is staying on. Also, when I started it yesterday I got a couple error messages. Something about transmission error and limited gears and an error about height adjustment.

Thanks.

 

I know it has been a while but just to close out this post for now. I continued for some time to drive the vehicle running very poorly. Although I had cleaned the MAF well it did not fix the issue.

I finally replace it and all of the codes went away (P0506-24, P0016-00, P0018-00, P0622-00, P0171, P0172, P0174, P0175, P0316, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308, P0101)

I think I may have one code left but not recalling exactly what it read but possibly battery/alternator related. My battery light is still on.

Most importantly the car is running fine. I do have an occasional hard to start issue and think I might just go ahead and replace the battery, about 5 years old.

Thanks for all the advice and had I actually listened earlier the problem would have been fixed must sooner.

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