My amber CEL illuminated recently, and i have needed to get it fixed. I ran an OBD scan and it said, "bank 1 too Lean." "bank 2 to Rich." it alternated like this for all codes 171-178. I replaced my MAF with an auto zone one, knowing that i should've ordered a genuine one because the light hasn't gone out. Is there any reason im getting 8 codes for the same problems? Any fixes? Thanks.

 

Have you cleared the codes? I would write them all down, clear then, then as soon as the CE comes on do a read. Don't wait. The longer you drive with certain faults the more codes you can get from the ECU trying to adjust for the one problem. Also after replacing the MAF you should do a fuel adaptations reset. Or at the very least, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes.

Now going lean AND rich is very odd. Usually its one way or the other, not both. How does it feel operating?

 

solid advice, thanks. do you know if the pedal trick still woks on the 6hp transmission? (turning the key to position 2, holding the pedal down for 5 seconds, turn the car off for two minutes and then start and go? Other than that, the idle feels fine, it seems a bit hesitant when im not stopped, but slowing down and resume the acceleration.

 

You do not want to reset the trans adaptations, you want to reset the ECU adaptations. For the LR3 I know of no tricks like that anyway. For now, just do as above and get some fresh codes and those of us here can help you go from there. I would toss out more ideas but at this stage we need those codes before turning this into a $500/parts guessing game

 

just had new codes read, PO171, 172, 174, 175.
All have one thing in common, MAF and injectors. It says possible o2 failure. But I have noticed there is a slight hesitation when slowing down to almost a complete stop, and accelerating again, there will sometimes be a delay, and then it’ll jump and get going. This leads me to believe it’s the injectors 100%.

 

Try running a fuel cleaner, but that sounds more like a MAF issue.

 

ran a fuel cleaner, and it seems to have helped a bit, but the hesitation is still there. So you'd say its MAF? I replaced mine not to long ago, but it was manufactured, not genuine. Would a genuine one make that difference?

 

Without codes, its a guess. Genuine MAFs are alway better. I am not a fan of refurbished but its probably okay. Keep in mind Toyota Denso MAFs work and can be had cheaper. 22204-22010 is the part number although there may be variations on that number for the same part. A Toyota sensor is what I put in mine.

 

huh, didnt know the Toyota one would work, does it run fine? No errors or anything with the computer etc?

 

It was the first thing to be replaced on my Rover. I think even the one originally in there says Denso w/Rover logo, I forget. But this is even in the training material: