Has anybody here removed a transfer box from a D3 with the tranny still in?

is it possible?

One more Q can the starter motor be removed without taken half of the left front suspension apart?

V8 D3
thanks

 

Yes, to the starter and without removing the plastic wheel well liner either. There is a shiny metal heat shield that can be removed down near the starter. Removal of the heat shield allows you to get a wrench to both the front and rear of the starter motor. Yes, there is one bolt to be removed from the front and a second from the rear. Make certain you have axle jacks under the frame - the air system will let go with no warning and you will be caught as the suspension collapses. This is no Jeep!

Any yes, you should be able to get the replacement starter back in as well. Do however look at the length of the threaded power stud where the starter power cable hooks up. Some rebuilt starters have longer studs and then you have a problem getting the starter back in. The solution is to remove the stud from the old unit and install it in the new unit.

Also count the teeth on the starter gear - just to make certain.

As to the transfer case, yes, no problem -the jpg shows how the Brits do it. In this case, I think it was just for an engine oil change.

Others may have better solutions than above re the transfer case.

 

Yes it is possible to remove the transfer box out on its own, you do need to get a 13mm torque adapter to get the top two bolts loose and a 13mm half moon spanner for the side bolts, both of which I just happened to have.

It was a headache to do but I had some time and wanted to see if could be done with one people .

But did fit my new to me AT, fitted the Ford filter and Tranny pan, also fitted a remote cooler

 

Thank you for the pictures but I do not recognize the pan.

It does not look to me to be a ZF pan for a ZF tranny on a Ford vehicle. Instead, it looks to me to be a Ford pan that one might find on on Fords license built ZF, the 6R60. If I am correct, I guess I was wondering if you had the Ford part number for it and the filter.

Also I presume the nipple I see on the bottom is for draining the oil. I ask as it seems some of the Ford pans do not have any drain hole and that one has to drop the pan or suck out the oil via the fill.

The jpg below is the Ford 6R60.

 

I have a Ford pan fitted to a ZF

I don't have the # of the pan at hand but will get it tomorrow, its the same for the F150 Raptor tranny.

the filter is FoMoCo FT-171 7L1Z-7A098-A

Gasket is a Fel-Pro unit # fel-pro T0518753

the drain was from Summit

Later

 

Ford A/T pan # 9L3Z-7A194-A which was $37
Ford filter 7L1Z-7A098-A $30

both online at sunrise ford

the A/T gasket FEL-PRO T0518753 (the first #5 could be a S) Amazon $30

Hayden Transaver oil cooler 1404 $32 fleebay

 

I wondered how you discovered that a pan from a Ford Raptor tranny would be suitable?

With the depression on the bottom, it looks different from any pan I have seen previously; as such I wondered it the pan was of heavier construction, as is the Raptor, or of greater capacity - it just looks different from what I would have anticipated but the Raptor is more than a tough looking F-150 - it really is an off road vehicle as much of it is upgraded for durability.

The link below has a number of files in it with regards to the metal and plastic pans; the Raptor pan is to me, really different. Some the the ZF metal pans do not even have drain holes; at least that one does.

Also, did you use 21 shorter cap screws, (M6 x 22.5 vs M6 x 28.5), to attach the metal pan? Some of the ZF metal pan kits provide shorter screws as the metal is thinner than the plastic; other ZF metal pan kits seem to stay with the longer Torx screws.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - ZF 6HP26 Automatic Transmission in LR3

 

I only said Ford Raptor as the dealer wanted to make sure I was getting the correct one, I think he was questioning me fitting Ford parts to a Land Rover.

The tranny in many Fords is just a built under licence from ZF. (do not quote me on that)its just called a 6R80, the pan holds just over a quirt more oil, also the reason for reshaping the heat guard, you have to fit your own drain plug if you so wish to fit one.

Also you can get all the internals here in the states to rebuild the tranny which are the same part #s for both company's trannys. Just google 6R80 repair kit

I Used the same screws but you have to cut down 5 of them by about 10mm as four at the rear and one at the side are blind holes (can't really remember) which one on the side it is but all the rest are open. You could cut them all down if you so wished.

I have never seen in person a ZF metal pan so I don't know if the Ford one is of heavier construction. But it is not thin tin! I also removed the magnets from the plastic pan and stuck them inside the new one.

Hope this answers your Q's?

 

The 6R80 will be the Ford version of the ZF 6HP28 I presume as the 6R60 was the Ford version of the ZF 6HP26.

So you put the drain plug in; that explains it. Why a drain plug is now something special really bugs me. Economics verses Engineering I guess and Engineering and Maintenance lose.

So the shorter screw thing perhaps does matter for at least five of them it seems; I always wondered.

Installing the magnets was I think a good idea; when I had my plastic pan removed at about 80,000 miles, there was a paste of metal fillings adhering to the magnets. It was nothing bad but better glued to the magnets than in circulation.

I expect the Raptor pan is heavier gauge than the ZF metal pan. LR is looking to design a new Defender. It seems to me LR should purchase the Raptor drive train and suspension; mount it in the 3's frame; develop a stretch version, (130" vs 113.6"), and offer 2 door and 4 door pickups, (Utes), as well as the current station wagons. They might end up with something versatile and reliable that could at least put them back on the UN's vehicle supply list.

This 66 page pdf talks about differences between the older 6HP26 and newer 6HP28 in the later 3's and 4's.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...rt_numbers.pdf

 

Hey Guys - I did the same thing, I when to the ford dealer and asked for the metal pan and filter for the Explorer Sport-Trax. The pan they sold me looks like the pan Roverman got. However, I did not like the small sump on the bottom because I did not want to "Make It Work" like Roverman did. After search eBay for a few months, I found a flat metal pan and filter. Both pans appears to be about the same thickness. The filter that came with the flat pan is slightly larger but the length of the neck is the same. The ford fluid was only $7 a qt vs land rover $22 a qt, but I'm stick with the land rover fluid. Don't want to save $100 on fluid to buy a used $3000 transmission later. Plan on installing as soon as the weather breaks in the midwest. Also the ford pan was a special order part, no returns, so I guess I have a candy dish for the garage now.