Pre Purchase Question
#11
04-12-2023 | 06:25 PM
Camel Trophy
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,164
Likes: 468
From: North of Seattle
Let's see some pics!!!
Agree with Dakota, the VIN can indicate if it has a locker but you need to have someone "run" it for you; I bet your local dealer parts dept would be game....I don't know what you mean about the VIN "pattern." Look for the actuator on top of the pumpkin; that's the most clear way to tell.
Agree with Dakota, the VIN can indicate if it has a locker but you need to have someone "run" it for you; I bet your local dealer parts dept would be game....I don't know what you mean about the VIN "pattern." Look for the actuator on top of the pumpkin; that's the most clear way to tell.
#12
04-12-2023 | 06:45 PM
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2023
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Likes: 7
From: Northern Virginia
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DakotaTravler (04-13-2023)
#13
04-12-2023 | 06:53 PM
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2023
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From: Northern Virginia
I will give my two cents.
Upper arms would be an unusual service item at that milage. New OEM arms can be found for less then $100, so they are not expensive per say. But they typically last no less than 150k. Heck, I bet some members here with over 200k still have original front uppers. Front lowers, on the other hand, have a life span of 70k miles or so. In any case, make sure the replacement parts are OEM or from the OEM producer (so OEM without expensive LR badge).
Hopefully the rear diff is just a sensor issue. I would not really be too worried as the sensor is easy to replace or the harness for it was damaged, as that can happen.
Valve cover gaskets at that milage are odd too. Make sure it is not the VVT seal. The VVT seals certainly leak on these a lot and that oil runs down the from of the covers. I have replaced mine twice. They take just minutes to do and other than moving a couple items out of the way, there is no opening up of the valve covers, etc. They just slip up and over the VVT solenoid. One on each side of the engine. With that said, I will be doing my valve cover gaskets this summer. But again, I am over 200k miles now.
Why do you think it has a rear locker? It could, but the only way to know is to look or the VIN. The Nav display, if equip, will always shock the lock icon for it - installed or not.
Upper arms would be an unusual service item at that milage. New OEM arms can be found for less then $100, so they are not expensive per say. But they typically last no less than 150k. Heck, I bet some members here with over 200k still have original front uppers. Front lowers, on the other hand, have a life span of 70k miles or so. In any case, make sure the replacement parts are OEM or from the OEM producer (so OEM without expensive LR badge).
Hopefully the rear diff is just a sensor issue. I would not really be too worried as the sensor is easy to replace or the harness for it was damaged, as that can happen.
Valve cover gaskets at that milage are odd too. Make sure it is not the VVT seal. The VVT seals certainly leak on these a lot and that oil runs down the from of the covers. I have replaced mine twice. They take just minutes to do and other than moving a couple items out of the way, there is no opening up of the valve covers, etc. They just slip up and over the VVT solenoid. One on each side of the engine. With that said, I will be doing my valve cover gaskets this summer. But again, I am over 200k miles now.
Why do you think it has a rear locker? It could, but the only way to know is to look or the VIN. The Nav display, if equip, will always shock the lock icon for it - installed or not.
And I used a vin loo Kip called vindecoderz, seems to give a highly accurate build sheet when looking up the vin, which states that it has the locking rear diff. Also could be wrong, as I truly know little about it. I am getting the shop it’s at now to re assess what the first shop told me, and then we will go from there!
I appreciate all the insight, I’m fairly confident with working on my own vehicles, but I’m new to the LR3s and love getting all these fist hand bits of knowledge.
I did thrash it around in the national forest outside of Staunton, VA on my way back home, and it really did well. Air suspension works great, terrains response system is functional, and the heated seats still work. Hoping it will be a fun rig.
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houm_wa (04-13-2023)
#14
04-13-2023 | 09:47 AM
Camel Trophy
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,164
Likes: 468
From: North of Seattle
I hope you do have the locking rear diff, because it sounds like you would appreciate it....gotta get under there and look though. That website seems very generic in what it returns back per VIN entry. I put both my 2005 (locker) and 2006 (open) VINs in the field and both returned the following:
Rear Axle Differential - Rear Axle Locking Diff [027CC];
Rear Axle Differential - Rear Axle Locking Diff [027CC]
....doesn't mean yours doesn't have the locker, but you will have to check. Fingers crossed!
Rear Axle Differential - Rear Axle Locking Diff [027CC];
Rear Axle Differential - Rear Axle Locking Diff [027CC]
....doesn't mean yours doesn't have the locker, but you will have to check. Fingers crossed!
#15
04-14-2023 | 05:44 PM
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 26
Likes: 7
From: Northern Virginia
I hope you do have the locking rear diff, because it sounds like you would appreciate it....gotta get under there and look though. That website seems very generic in what it returns back per VIN entry. I put both my 2005 (locker) and 2006 (open) VINs in the field and both returned the following:
Rear Axle Differential - Rear Axle Locking Diff [027CC];
Rear Axle Differential - Rear Axle Locking Diff [027CC]
....doesn't mean yours doesn't have the locker, but you will have to check. Fingers crossed!
Rear Axle Differential - Rear Axle Locking Diff [027CC];
Rear Axle Differential - Rear Axle Locking Diff [027CC]
....doesn't mean yours doesn't have the locker, but you will have to check. Fingers crossed!
well, I guess I got lucky!! Got the rig back from the shop, bill was lower than I expected, turns out she does have a locking rear diff and the bad sensor ended up being two broken wires! I’ll call that a win….
I still have to find the other end of the broken sensor wires, but I’m hoping it won’t cost be but two waterproof crimp connectors. Only real concern about this rig now is the good amount of rust on the rear diff and a few odd spots on the frame. It’s odd because some areas are very clean, while others are looking a bit rough. I think I’m going to remove the majority of the bad rust ares in the fall with a de scaler, and have it coated to try to hold off any more spots creeping up. Although once it starts…….
I still have to jack it up and see about the upper control arms. Hoping the shop wasn’t wrong in their diagnoses but time will tell!!
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houm_wa (04-17-2023)
#16
04-14-2023 | 06:33 PM
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 4,343
Likes: 781
From: Green Bay, WI
Good news on the sensor, I sorta figured as much as it has happened to others before. The locker is nice. Keep in mind it is NOT a true locker in the sense that it is either locked or not. It is an e-diff and works differently than regular lockers. Upper arms are very DIY if you have the tools and basics skills. The only tricky part is getting in through the engine bay to to nuts/bolts.
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DetailingDisco98 (04-15-2023)
#17
04-15-2023 | 06:02 AM
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2023
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From: Northern Virginia
Good news on the sensor, I sorta figured as much as it has happened to others before. The locker is nice. Keep in mind it is NOT a true locker in the sense that it is either locked or not. It is an e-diff and works differently than regular lockers. Upper arms are very DIY if you have the tools and basics skills. The only tricky part is getting in through the engine bay to to nuts/bolts.
I did notice a good whine at 50 mph though, thinking it is just the nitro ridge grapplers wearing down but it’s fairly loud. Hoping it’s not the rear diff. It’s fairly loud, I can hear it best with the windows closed but i can’t seem to pin point it to any one place. Only becomes apparent at that speed, almost immediately so.
not sure why I didn’t notice it before, but today was the first day I drove it to work without any music playing.
#18
04-15-2023 | 08:17 AM
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 27
Likes: 5
From: Coastal NC
[QUOTE=DetailingDisco98;862078I did notice a good whine at 50 mph though, thinking it is just the nitro ridge grapplers wearing down but it’s fairly loud. Hoping it’s not the rear diff. It’s fairly loud, I can hear it best with the windows closed but i can’t seem to pin point it to any one place. Only becomes apparent at that speed, almost immediately so.[/QUOTE]
Look at the front diff for this, too, a pretty common failure point as LR, in their infinite wisdom, apparently painted the inside of the front diffs. I had a similar sound ('07 135k miles) that over the next 1500 miles became progressively more noticeable down to about 35mph. Like yours, most noticeable with the windows up.
Early in that window I changed the front diff fluid - no metal so I was comfortable driving it for a while, but dark and a bit of a burnt smell (moreso than fresh diff oil). I was fairly confident that the paint had degraded and affected the pinion bearing. I ultimately sourced a rebuilt front diff that confirmed my dx... no more noise.
Look at the front diff for this, too, a pretty common failure point as LR, in their infinite wisdom, apparently painted the inside of the front diffs. I had a similar sound ('07 135k miles) that over the next 1500 miles became progressively more noticeable down to about 35mph. Like yours, most noticeable with the windows up.
Early in that window I changed the front diff fluid - no metal so I was comfortable driving it for a while, but dark and a bit of a burnt smell (moreso than fresh diff oil). I was fairly confident that the paint had degraded and affected the pinion bearing. I ultimately sourced a rebuilt front diff that confirmed my dx... no more noise.
#19
04-15-2023 | 08:50 AM
Thread Starter
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 26
Likes: 7
From: Northern Virginia
Look at the front diff for this, too, a pretty common failure point as LR, in their infinite wisdom, apparently painted the inside of the front diffs. I had a similar sound ('07 135k miles) that over the next 1500 miles became progressively more noticeable down to about 35mph. Like yours, most noticeable with the windows up.
Early in that window I changed the front diff fluid - no metal so I was comfortable driving it for a while, but dark and a bit of a burnt smell (moreso than fresh diff oil). I was fairly confident that the paint had degraded and affected the pinion bearing. I ultimately sourced a rebuilt front diff that confirmed my dx... no more noise.
Early in that window I changed the front diff fluid - no metal so I was comfortable driving it for a while, but dark and a bit of a burnt smell (moreso than fresh diff oil). I was fairly confident that the paint had degraded and affected the pinion bearing. I ultimately sourced a rebuilt front diff that confirmed my dx... no more noise.
is rebuilding a option? Guess it depends on what components are failing. I guess I’ll do a diff fluid flush and see what I find. Anything else to look for as far as diagnosing a failed pinion bearing. I have heard that’s fairly common.
#20
04-15-2023 | 09:01 AM
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 27
Likes: 5
From: Coastal NC
as I still have the original tires and wheels, I’ll throw those on and see if the noise goes away. Not really wanting to replace a diff anytime soon…..
is rebuilding a option? Guess it depends on what components are failing. I guess I’ll do a diff fluid flush and see what I find. Anything else to look for as far as diagnosing a failed pinion bearing. I have heard that’s fairly common.
is rebuilding a option? Guess it depends on what components are failing. I guess I’ll do a diff fluid flush and see what I find. Anything else to look for as far as diagnosing a failed pinion bearing. I have heard that’s fairly common.
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DetailingDisco98 (04-15-2023)