I'm getting ready to replace all the coolant hoses on my LR3 as preventive maintenance. Don't want wife blowing a hose while in the mountains on a weekend getaway with the kids. The hose with the infamous air bleed cap terminates under the intake manifold. I can't find a good write-up on how to replace it. Does anyone know if the intake manifold needs to be removed in order to replace it??? If so, this may be one hose that doesn't get replaced until it fails.


Any advice?

 

Just the front part of the intake needs to come off, same as in doing the thermostat housing(which if you're concerned about a failure, I would do this too)

 

Thanks for the quick reply, Dave! Yeah, I'm doing all hoses, t-stat and t-stat housing.... plus the accessory belts. Had a small leak a couple of months ago and read about the air bleeder, so I've decided to address the weak points in the cooling system.


By the front part, are you meaning the throttle body portion, or is there another part that comes off? Any additional gaskets I need to buy for those intake parts, or is it rubber o-ring material that doesn't need replacing?


Any thoughts on the idler pulley replacement? I haven't had any issues on my '06, and the LR document (TSB?) shows the need for grinding and the replacement of the tensioner in addition to the pulley. Any insight on that little job?


Thanks again.


TC

 

The front of the intake(plenum), metal piece that the TB attaches to, removes for access. The gaskets that you will need to replace(can probably be reused as either metal or rubber, but they're cheap and good assurance)

Throttle body to intake plenum - 4536886
Plenum to manifold - LWF500020
EGR valve to plenum - 4536856

If you're doing the belts, change the pulley too if the old style is fitted. Most don't require grinding, but if it does, it's not much. The noise that this prevents is somewhat secondary(although the main symptom) as the lateral movement that the old style allows, can cause the belt to rub on the timing cover. The tensioner does not need to be replaced, just removed for access.

While you're at it, install the updated breather vent cap for the front differential as well, again, cheap part LR019450.

I know the little things start to add up, but a few other good, and often overlooked maintenance items to swap while you're at it(obviously I don't know your service history) are going to be the ignition capacitor (LR004160) and the PCV valve (LR003380)

 

Right on. Many thanks for sharing the additional info. Was unaware of the PCV breather and capacitor issue, so I'll get those, too.


Yeah, the projects are starting to add up. Hoses, belts, pulleys, gaskets.... but the insurance is worth it. Now if I can just get my compressor to behave Not looking forward to dropping $800 for a new one, so trying to refresh the one I have. (fingers crossed)


Thanks Dave. You've probably saved me a headache or two in the future.


I've had this one about 30,000 miles. I changed the transfer and diff fluids when I got it. Are we supposed to change them every 30k miles or so? I can't remember. Always something on a vehicle, whether a Soobie a Honda or a Land Rover.....

 

I think 30,000 mile changes on the diffs are probably a good idea because they hold so little fluid. The transfer case can probably wait till 50,000 miles or so because it holds more fluid and I don't think the transfer case suffers from the same moisture buildup/water ingress problems that the diffs do.

 

I generally recommend 50k on diffs and t-case, but more often is better, although factory spec is 150k on the open diffs(30k is a hard sell at a shop)

Also, for the compressor, I'm guessing you're replacing the dryer, which is usually what fails(and will eventually cause the whole unit to fail, along with sticking valves) but if caught early enough, will usually restore some life to the compressor. If you get the whole rebuild kit, be careful with removing the cover for the delivery valve, I have seen several of these corrode to the point of seizing, and break when removing(which will force compressor replacement) but also, the delivery valve is usually not the failure point(it can fail, and I have seen a few, but usually not the issue)

 

idk I had my diff fluid replaced after about 1200 miles on my new diffs....just to get fresh fluid in it after a bed-in period. Then after another 20k miles or so, I had it changed again and the tech told me that the fluid from the rear diff was "black" and had significant metal shavings in it.

....so maybe 30k is still not often enough. I may go 15k, myself.