So my 3 has been sitting low for a month or two. I think its been a strut that is going, but my tech told me I could try swapping the rear EAS valve block and it might be a 50/50 chance on fixing the droop.

Over a 24-hour period, the passenger rear side drops almost to bump stops. Driver side is not as bad, I wonder if it automatically lowers the whole rear trying to level out both sides.

Should I drop the $150 for the valve block? Also the service documents say I need to depressurize the system with a T4 (I don't have one of course) before working on the unit. What could I do to depressurize manually?

 

Gonna be hard to get under it on the ground depressurized, I did this to ours with the scanner and it goes low, scanner also has a mode that depressurizes the air tank

Just guessing but pull the pump fuse and keep moving the suspension till air runs out?

 

Rear valve block replacement is a bitch, compered to a front one.
The easiest way, although , there is no easy one and it requires patience,set of good, preferably small hands and lots of swear breaks.
, Loosen the wheel, Jack the back up, secure chassis with at least 3 ton jack stands and take the driver side wheel off. If you don't have a computer to de pressurize the system, you can loosen two supply lines in the valve block itself and let the air escape thru there. just remember to STOP turning once you hear the air hissing.you DON'T want to loosen supply lines completelyas the lines WILL jump out of the block with brute force, just to the point , when you hair air.It is hard to get to those nuts on top of the VOSS connectors, but it is passible for sure.It literally takes , maybe one or two quarter turns to hear air escaping thru VOSS connectors.Then you take a 10 min. break and you let the air completely out of the both air struts .Nathing is gonna collapse , as you already secured chassis with jacks stands.Then you can unplug the harness, undo the nuts completely , on top of the valve block and replace it with a new one.
I think , there is a youtube video regarding a front air strut replacement, that goes over a front valve block depressarizing procedure , that involves basically the same steps.

 

Just to update this thread,

I swapped the passenger side rear strut where I thought the leak was but it appears the whole rear end sits down a few inches overnight, not bump stops by any means but it does mean the compressor has to pump it up when I leave for work in the mornings.

I have yet to pull fuses and test overnight, but I have gotten a new rear axle valve block to swap in and will try that. If that doesn't work I gotta think its one of the air lines leaking then, but now that the strut has been replaced and its the whole axle I do suspect the block.

 

update again

did pull fuses, truck still leaked overnight

waited a while then swapped in rear valve block, tech at LR said one of the air lines going into my block or one of the fittings had a tiny pinhole leak and that the swap should fix. Swap was Friday and I haven't had the truck drop at all over the weekend, so we're good to go.

None of this crap was cheap but commuting 100 miles a day, I needed it to be done with this.

 

What did it cost you?