Safe Battery Charger
#11
#12
This is the tool Jaguar, and Land Rover use, Midtronics PSC550
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...3/1-224NAS.pdf
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...3/1-224NAS.pdf
#13
This is the tool Jaguar, and Land Rover use, Midtronics PSC550
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...3/1-224NAS.pdf
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...3/1-224NAS.pdf
Too bad (for me anyway) it's $400
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YKCQE2
#15
The midtronics is good.
The big thing here, is you want a clean charge. Most chargers will induce voltage spikes, which can cause programming to fail. Same reason you don't want to use a jump from another car really either, but that shouldn't be as bad. You will need more then 7A. Midtronics used to make a 35A version that was cheaper then the 55A, but it is hard to find anymore.
I haven't been able to find a distributor for it, but BMW dealerships have one as shop tools that works very well, and is much cheaper. I just started looking into this for a personal replacement, and if I can figure out where to source it, I will let you know.
The big thing here, is you want a clean charge. Most chargers will induce voltage spikes, which can cause programming to fail. Same reason you don't want to use a jump from another car really either, but that shouldn't be as bad. You will need more then 7A. Midtronics used to make a 35A version that was cheaper then the 55A, but it is hard to find anymore.
I haven't been able to find a distributor for it, but BMW dealerships have one as shop tools that works very well, and is much cheaper. I just started looking into this for a personal replacement, and if I can figure out where to source it, I will let you know.
#18
What do you guys think about one of those big old school wheel around battery chargers? Especially an older one with no smarts, just a switch to select amps? I figure it's running in the 20+ amp range, and doesn't try to cycle on and off like the newer smart chargers it would do ok. Any thoughts?
#19
I have used them for programming, but never been entirely comfortable doing so. You would want to stay on low-medium, 15-30A, but the issue with those is the possibility of the voltage going higher then it should, which can shut down a module, and if that happens mid-program, you're in a world of problems(the Jag systems are much better then the older, like BMW, ones as far as being able to recover a module with only partial software in it, but it gets tricky)
Realistically, it would work, but there is a risk. Enough of a risk for LR as a manufacturer to say it will not work at all.
Also, keep in mind, the battery maintainers, such as the PCS300, are not meant to charge the battery at all, just to keep it at a safe voltage for diagnostics. These should not be used in place of a battery charger for a weak battery.
Realistically, it would work, but there is a risk. Enough of a risk for LR as a manufacturer to say it will not work at all.
Also, keep in mind, the battery maintainers, such as the PCS300, are not meant to charge the battery at all, just to keep it at a safe voltage for diagnostics. These should not be used in place of a battery charger for a weak battery.
#20
I got my MONGOOSE JLR up and running but it requires my battery to be at 12.5v or better. As it sits in key position 2 I'm at 12.3v. Since the 3 is a sensitive beast I'm hesitant to use the "Battery Tender Plus" charger I have on hand. Can anyone make some recommendations around the $50-$200 range?
I use the CTEK in supply, and it's important to use a charger because things may go wrong badly if the voltage drops. A lot of stuff needs to be done with the ignition switch on, and that draws a lot.