I just bought a 2009 LR3 and I was going to add a set of chains to my bag of "what if" goodies. I found a few threads but they were from like 2007 and I thought that there might have been some new developments since then. I plan to switch to 18" wheels and add Johnson rods. I see in the manual it says to not put chains on the rear of the vehicle, why is that? Also are there any options that will work other than the Uber expensive OEM chains? Tire size will be 275/65/18. Thanks in advance.

 

Here are some tips:

1. Get an IIDTool and skip the Johnson Rods.
2. Get good tires and skip the chains.

I ran a shortened-rod to fit my 32s for years. Once I went IIDTool, I never went back. It allows me to run on the street at stock heights and then lift it 2" when I get to the trail and might rub due to articulation.

As for chains. I have never needed them. In deep snow the MT/Rs are boss. On packed now the Nokians rule. You can't fit chains running 32" tires anyway.

 

Thanks, I am going to order durtracs tomorrow.

 

That's a solid choice.

 

Fair warning - not all LR3s will be able to achieve the same level of lift with the GAP tool. It will depend on the sensor calibration of your specific vehicle. I had originally planned to do exactly as houm_wa suggested, running only the GAP tool to get my lift, but I found I could only do about 35mm of lift (less than 1.5"). I ended up running the Johnson rods anyway.

The ideal situation is to have both the rods AND the GAP tool. This will let you fine-tune the amount of lift you have as desired. And the GAP tool has mucho-uses beyond simply lifting the rig.

Alternatively you could look at the LLAMS tool from Austrailia or the similar but more effective Anitas unit from Italy.

Lastly, if you do want to run chains for whatever reason be aware there is very little clearance at the front upper knuckle even with stock tire sizes. This is why the dealer specified chains are the super-expensive 'outside of the wheel only' stuff. I forget the name of the vendor, but they're made in scandinavia as I recall and can be bought through the original manufacturer at a better price than a dealer but they are still brutally expensive. And of course if you're running a larger than stock tire chains are pretty much out no matter what type you try.

 

That's a good piece of input from Don. I tend to forget that the IIDTool doesn't work exclusively for all due to calibration, because I'm not in that category, luckily.

That said, it's a very necessary piece of kit. I suggest those plus a rod-mod as Don suggests. I hate to...because JR is so over-the-top douchey salesman on these boards, but his product is solid if you don't want to DIY. Rods are easy to mod.

As for wheels/tires/chains. I have both 18s and 19s. 275/65R18 MT/Rs on one set for summer and wheelin' and camping...and Nokian Hakkapeliittas for winter and snow. If you get a dedicated snow tire you will not need chains. The Hakkas have AMAZED me with what they can do.

 

If you referring to Duratracs,it was a total failure for me , unfortunately .

 

I ran Duratracs for 2 years and about 20k miles, 275/65-18s. In that time I cut 3 sidewalls and by the end I could tear pieces of the tread off by hand.

They were good in snow, reasonably quite and well mannered on the highway, and decent everywhere else. They just weren't tough enough for playing in the rocks.

 

Hmmm....could be a case of them being good tires on other vehicles but not on the LR3. I know a lot of people that swear by them!

 

I think it comes down to how and where you use them. I'd run them again if I wasn't going to beat on the truck in the rocks. But they do have a reputation for having soft sidewalls so I can't say I'm surprised.

Hopefully by this time next year I'll have the RRC done (as if these things are ever done) and it will take over the rock crawling duties. If/when that time comes I'll probably move the LR3 back to an AT tire instead of the current MTs. Cooper ST-Maxx and the new BFG KO2 are my current thinking.