Yesterday, I purchased a 2007 LR3 with 120k miles that is as close to "new" as it could possibly be. Not a flaw on the vehicle that I can find, inside or out other than a tiny scratch in the vinyl trim that I am going to fix. I looked through the records and found several services for brake rotor/pad replacement, an air suspension kit "upgrade" for the compressor of about $1800, a replaced cat. converter, a replaced alternator, a couple of batteries, and that's about it. Lots of fluid changes at the specified intervals.

The vehicle runs like a top with no lights or issues. Is this the exception with an LR3? At 120K miles, is there anything that needs attention other than just keeping clean fluids and filters? I've read some about a transmission service - is this recommended? I didn't show a record of this.

 

#1 is buy a Gap tool. Plug in diagnostic for the truck that is beyond valuable. Can read codes, change many settings like ride height, turn off tpms sensors, clear adaptations. Makes trouble shooting and repairs so much easier

Definitely swap the fluids in the front diff, rear diff and transfer case. All in all its 1-2 hours of work for peace of mind.

I would do the new pan and filter kit of the transmission. The new pan is better and a fluid change is worth it. The kit is 250 and is something most shops can easily handle.

 

I never trust records when it comes to fluids, so I tend to change them regardless. If you have the rear locking diff, then a fluid change can be even more critical if you are not certain what fluid was last used. With the locker, you need one compatible with the carbon material used on the clutches. A regular "friction mod" fluid will not suffice. BOT 720 from Castrol is the current and correct fluid to use.

The transmission kit mentioned above, at that price will include fluid. You can get just the pan kit for around $130. But then of course you need the fluid anyway.

And maybe pull the engine beauty cover and see if there is a plastic "T" fitting resting above/near the throttle body. They break. Most just remove it and toss in a brass fitting.

Check carpets for water. The sunroof drain ends clog with debris. This holds in water/moisture until the rubber corrode and fails. When they do water dumps into the cabin. This can lead to a cornucopia of issues. The front drains are more susceptible than the two rear drains. Another leak point can be the front a-trim pillar covers (on the outside, black plastic). They updated them and made a kit to retro-fit the existing ones. You remove a couple plastic pins and install better plastic tabs for sealing. Its an inexpensive fix. And the last water entry point can be the windshield cowl along the windshield. It warps. If there is a gap water can dump into the HVAC system and then onto the carpets.

Overall these dont have a long list of common issues. They have issues, certainly, but I have owned some cars that have a "top 100" list of common issues nearly every owner will encounter one day.

 

I have not changed the plastic fitting. Where to get the brass one (part number)?
I have a brass straight through fitting that I have had for a long time. does it make a difference if I use the straight fitting. What is the 'T' for at that location?

 

The T is for bleeding the system. Its not essential. Any fitting will do. You can easily replace with a t-fitting from a hardware store.