I'm sure this has been covered, but where the heck am I actually spraying water/soap mixture to look for bubbles? On the top of the shock tower? On the compressor? Near the gallery?

Thanks in advance.

 

Yes.

Its a bubble party. Have at it. If you spray the top of the struts and it leaks, then you maybe can rebuild em. I have not tried it yet, but kits are available.

But spray and wait, don't rush over areas. Also keep in mind if there is a leak in the main gallery, pressure can drop FAST, so you sorta need to check the main gallery when the compressor is running.

 

Thanks, Dakota.

I didn't remove the acoustic box to check the connections to the compressor. Maybe I need to. I also didn't really see where to spray on the main gallery. I just don't see which connections are actually visible unless I'm being too passive about getting my head up in there! I did do the tops of each strut and I spent some time at each one....especially the rears (the fronts are pretty new, less suspect).

Honestly it's easier to just pull the neg battery cable and wait overnight.

 

Don't forget about those front and rear valve assemblies, that's where my problem turned out to be (front). Also, if I have to replace any of those air spring/struts, am going for the complete strut assembly either Dunlop (cheapest for me) or Arnott, they seem to be the most reliable in our climate. The shock component is likely worn out after 150,000 miles so just doing the air springs is probably not the most cost effective solution, and I really like the air suspension system. Just my $0.02 worth...

 

Well....measured this morning and my results are kind of mixed, but I'm concerned that it's one of the rear shocks.

The front: Driver side didn't sink at all
Passenger side sank about an inch

The rear: Driver side sank about 3"
Passenger side sank about 6"

I wasn't in a perfectly level spot; there was a slight crown in the surface such that the passenger side was a bit lower in elevation.

Thoughts? Rear valve block or rear passenger side shock???

 

Perhaps you have a combination of problems. My valve block was leaking and the whole front would collapse to the stops if it sat for about 5 days, dropping equally on both sides with fuses F3 & F26 removed in the engine compartment. Replaced the valve block with a used one and ordered seals to rebuild the old block...

 

Right....same happened for me in the front.

The rear, in this case, dropped on both sides but not equally. I'm wondering if it would be worth it to try a rear valve block first, before moving on to the shock itself. One is a cheap fix, the other one would be $$$ since I'd want to do both sides and the rears are pretty spendy. I only paid $4700 for this LR3.

 

Replacing or rebuilding the rear valve block would be the easiest and cheapest, but it sure is in a nasty place, I'd keep my grandkids away when trying to work on it...

 

Yeah....I'm just thinking that I'm applying wishful thinking rather than critical thinking.

It dropped an entire 3" more on one side in the rear. If it were a valve block, it would be equal, I'd think. Then again, I'm not sure why the driver's side rear would drop at all if the psx side shock is leaky, except just due to the weight of the vehicle. Seems like it should make it raise, though....and maybe it did, but the net was a droop....and now I'm thinking in circles.

 

A valves block, front and rear, has three valves. The cross-link valve is not usually an issue. But just one of the other two can leak causing one side to have air loss.