Starter/Fault lights question
#1
Starter/Fault lights question
2005 LR3 SE. When I turn key, sometimes starter does not turn. Next try usually it does start. Then when driving, all fault lights will come on, which leads me to believe it is not the starter. Fault lights will usually go off after restarting. Battery good, had battery connections cleaned. Any advice would be appreciated. Not looking forward to getting hosed at the dealer again. Thanks.
#2
Regulator good?
Regulator good - that is a trick question as there is effectively no way you can test it. When bad, it tends to default such that the engine will most often run once started and all lights etc will operate. Also most battery and alternator shops having old style test equipment will show all good - that includes the LR dealer as well.
Assuming your battery and all else is good, when parked and all off, the no load voltage across the plus and minus of the battery should be at least 12.2 VDC, and perhaps if all is really good, (which is almost never), 12.5 VDC.
When driving about, the voltage at the cigarette lighter should run near 14 volts and no lower than 13.2 volts. Seeing 14.9 volts for short periods is good news, not a sign of bad.
Since I expect your no load, engine off battery voltages will be less than 12.2 volts, start by putting your battery on a trickle charger every night for at least a week to get the voltage up.
I expect then, that your engine/starter will for the most part work. If so, the problem is either the starter solenoid contacts or the regulator.
The easy fix is a new alternator or new starter as the regulator is near impossible to repair and re the starter, the work is in removing and installing the starter so that is the most practical; same with the alternator as well.
This link has a number of files related to the alternator and regulator systems.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous
Incidentally, your dealer is not out to hose you, he just does not know - that is even worse.
Assuming your battery and all else is good, when parked and all off, the no load voltage across the plus and minus of the battery should be at least 12.2 VDC, and perhaps if all is really good, (which is almost never), 12.5 VDC.
When driving about, the voltage at the cigarette lighter should run near 14 volts and no lower than 13.2 volts. Seeing 14.9 volts for short periods is good news, not a sign of bad.
Since I expect your no load, engine off battery voltages will be less than 12.2 volts, start by putting your battery on a trickle charger every night for at least a week to get the voltage up.
I expect then, that your engine/starter will for the most part work. If so, the problem is either the starter solenoid contacts or the regulator.
The easy fix is a new alternator or new starter as the regulator is near impossible to repair and re the starter, the work is in removing and installing the starter so that is the most practical; same with the alternator as well.
This link has a number of files related to the alternator and regulator systems.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous
Incidentally, your dealer is not out to hose you, he just does not know - that is even worse.
The following users liked this post:
2005LR3SE (02-01-2015)
#3
#4
Lots of lights, small problem.
I do hope the new alternator solves the problem and also makes the dash warning lights extinguish.
Do not be surprised if after you install your alternator, the radio does not work; this is just a warning, but all is not lost plus probably some of the lights will still be illuminated.
If you have the radio problem, do a hard reset as below.
I think the "no radio" thing occurs as a result of one disconnecting the battery before the vehicle has gone to sleep. In your case, make certain the key is out, the drivers window rolled down, all doors shut, and that all the interior displays, (NAV, Radio, dash), are off before you disconnect the battery.
Also if after the alternator install, some of the dash warning lights are still there, (probably will be), it can take a few days for the error codes to work their way thru the system and hence extinguish the lights.
Below is what my dash looks like right now - a left rear speed sensor has failed and this is what you get - the appearance of the end of the world for a minor problem.
Basically the antilock does not work, hence the antiskid does not work and the computers want the suspension to go down to the stops. It was for this sort of situation, I installed what I call my F38P switch that turns off the suspension computers and hence locks my 3 at normal height.
Probably this week I will get the speed sensor replaced and all will be good again. I might add that it has been at least a year since I have seen any bad news lights - the 3 is not that unreliable, but all the warning indicators can make it look so.
The jpg below is of my dash and the link is to my F35P switch files.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch
Hard Reset Instructions
In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition.This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed.(I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.) Also when I play with a car battery, I remove any rings I have from my fingers, also my watch.
Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.
The reason for this order is if a wrench or loose battery cable ends grounds to the body, no arcing or other bad things happen.
(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)
Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) To do this, you will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other.
Hold all together for about a minute or more, (at least two minutes), as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere.Then it is suggested you then just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes, (minimum five minutes), prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following order.
Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.
Start engine and hopefully none or at least fewer warning lights and the radio when turned on plays music rather than being silent.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased.Nothing much else needs resetting either.
You can also now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.
This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure. http://bit.ly/14WXXR1
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic19547.html
This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure.
http://www.disco3club.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=3374
Do not be surprised if after you install your alternator, the radio does not work; this is just a warning, but all is not lost plus probably some of the lights will still be illuminated.
If you have the radio problem, do a hard reset as below.
I think the "no radio" thing occurs as a result of one disconnecting the battery before the vehicle has gone to sleep. In your case, make certain the key is out, the drivers window rolled down, all doors shut, and that all the interior displays, (NAV, Radio, dash), are off before you disconnect the battery.
Also if after the alternator install, some of the dash warning lights are still there, (probably will be), it can take a few days for the error codes to work their way thru the system and hence extinguish the lights.
Below is what my dash looks like right now - a left rear speed sensor has failed and this is what you get - the appearance of the end of the world for a minor problem.
Basically the antilock does not work, hence the antiskid does not work and the computers want the suspension to go down to the stops. It was for this sort of situation, I installed what I call my F38P switch that turns off the suspension computers and hence locks my 3 at normal height.
Probably this week I will get the speed sensor replaced and all will be good again. I might add that it has been at least a year since I have seen any bad news lights - the 3 is not that unreliable, but all the warning indicators can make it look so.
The jpg below is of my dash and the link is to my F35P switch files.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch
Hard Reset Instructions
In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition.This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed.(I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.) Also when I play with a car battery, I remove any rings I have from my fingers, also my watch.
Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.
The reason for this order is if a wrench or loose battery cable ends grounds to the body, no arcing or other bad things happen.
(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)
Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) To do this, you will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other.
Hold all together for about a minute or more, (at least two minutes), as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere.Then it is suggested you then just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes, (minimum five minutes), prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following order.
Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.
Start engine and hopefully none or at least fewer warning lights and the radio when turned on plays music rather than being silent.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased.Nothing much else needs resetting either.
You can also now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.
This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure. http://bit.ly/14WXXR1
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic19547.html
This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure.
http://www.disco3club.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=3374
The following users liked this post:
2005LR3SE (02-05-2015)
#5
#6
my 3 is not exactly an angel either
Please keep us informed - we always like to know how these things work out.
Re my bit with all the warning lights, it looks like the problem is not the left wheel speed sensor but in the ABS unit circuit to the left wheel speed sensor.
This tends to mean a replacement ABS unit, a bit more money than a wheel speed sensor - will keep you informed as well - the replacement unit will be in next week.
Re my bit with all the warning lights, it looks like the problem is not the left wheel speed sensor but in the ABS unit circuit to the left wheel speed sensor.
This tends to mean a replacement ABS unit, a bit more money than a wheel speed sensor - will keep you informed as well - the replacement unit will be in next week.
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