I picked up a 2010 Range Rover Sport a couple of weeks ago. It had been stolen and stripped of some interior parts and the tail lights. The thieves then sprayed the interior with a fire extinguisher to cover their tracks. Caked on extinguisher residue everywhere......yuck. Also, I didn't get keys with the truck.

The missing parts are 1. all four window switches, 2. right and left front door window motors, 3. right and left front door tweeters, 4. headlight switch, 5. start button, 6. radio control and clock, 7. navigation screen, 8. gear shift surround with parking brake and terrain control **** and buttons, 9. right and left tail lights, 10. front right door control module, 11. jack and tools, 12. manuals. (the prior owner lived here in La Jolla. I called to see if he still had the keys, he had just thrown them away.......dang)

I picked up most of the parts from Roverland Detroit. I got a pretty good price on the parts, Mark and Pat were great to work with.

I ordered a new key from Genuine Land Rover Parts. I believe that it is a branch of Land Rover San Diego, they have the same address, sadly, they had to ship the key to me, took 4 days and cost $18, I could not pick it up at will call. Price, $264, plus shipping and tax, was almost exactly that of Merriam Land Rover, but Merriam does not sell keys mail order. Programming will be another $85.

Battery is charged up, lights will come on, interior dome lights, front and rear and cargo area light up, cargo door electric latch works, main and glass, horn works, dash screen comes on, passenger electric seat works. Brake lights, turn signals and emergency lights all work.

I installed the headlight switch, the start button, the radio control and clock, the nav screen and the gear shift lever surround, the front left and right window motor and repaired and replaced some wires that had been cut and plugs that were taken with the stolen parts.

The start button has power, when I push it, the drivers dash indicated no key is found.

I have no power to the front doors (puddle lights don't light up, back seat door puddle lights light up although I have not reinstalled the door panels yet, could that be the issue with the front puddle lights),

The nav screen doesn't light up,

The radio control doesn't seem to have power.

The clock isn't working.

The electric steering column adjustment isn't working.

Driver's seat won't work (there is a memory seat control on the driver's door panel, that may be the problem with the driver's door.

Some of the more sophisticated items I can understand having issues, but the clock is so simple, it should work.

Is there a relay or some type of fuse that would control all of the center front dash items, nav screen, radio control and clock, but not the start button or headlights?

I am going to have it towed to the dealer to have the new key programmed but I would like to have as much working as possible so that I can drive it home.

Any ideas, baffled here in San Diego.......I was hoping to just get the key programmed by the dealer, not electrical search and rescue.....Thanks. I can't wait to start driving this thing, it looks amazing.

Phil

2005 LR3, Tonga Green
2006 Range Rover Sport, Giverney Green
2010 Range Rover Sport, Santorini Black

 

Consider getting a GAP Diagnostics BT IIDTOOL. It can program keys and read all of the errors. With programming and tow, you are half way there in dollars. Very useful tool. Unless you have a hookup that is going to help diagnose the other issues.

Consider a hard reset by removing battery connectors and shorting (connecting with wire). Missing key may be big the issue. Did you buy any computer modules? Dealer or independent may need to program. Did you get all new? Something might be VIN locked.

 

We have lift off! I had the RRS towed to the dealer to have the key programmed. .programming went perfectly. I am missing the front right door control module. That controls door locks, right side windows, right front speakers and the system thinks that the door isn’t closed so the air suspension will go std height only. The radio control, clock went working due to a blown 5 amp fuse. No 40 I think. Everything works! Truck drives like new. Except one thing. A gas leak. I filled the tank on the way home from the dealer. Got home and smelled gas. Drove around a bit. Gas. Got under the truck and saw a gas leaking on the inside side of the tank. I need to run some gas out and see if that stops it from leaking. Updates to follow. Phil

 

A few photos.

 

You've cleaned it up nicely!

 

Congrats! Did you source the parts used? Care to share what you have ($) into it?

 

Looks fantastic keep up the good work!

 

I attended a wedding in Westlake Village yesterday. I used the drive as an opportunity to do a shakedown on the Range Rover sport. 140 miles one way from San Diego to Westlake Village. 4 hours.....the last 25 miles was brutal. Stop and go outside temp reading, 120’ f.

The RRS ran flawlessly. The 5.0 ltr seems to have a bit more power than the 4.4 Ltr. The transmission in the 2010 is so smooth. No annoying jerk after starting up after a stop. I still can’t believe that Land Rover hasn’t done a recall for that problem. The ac kept the truck perfectly comfortable, even with the black exterior. Heading back to San Diego this morning. I am hoping to make it in less than 4 hours! Gotta love LA traffic. So far I am loving this 2010.

To answer an earlier question, I am into it around $2500 initial purchase price. Should have about $1250 in parts and another $250 for dealer work, key programming and two plugs wire splices that I just cant find the answer to. I have dmv fees, a smog test fees, $45, a brake and light test $68. I used a third party service to handle the registration, $50. DMV lines out here are brutal, 3 to 4 hour wait times are normal. The reg service fee is well worth it. It will have a salvage title, sadly no way around that title designation. On the other hand I never would have been able to buy it if it had a clean title even with the missing parts.

The mystery plugs are on the front passenger door, inside the door panel. one plug with two black wires and another with 4 black only wires. I can’t find the order of how they connect. Just plain black wires, no stripes or other markings. They are wrapped together and are inside the door panel, about where your right elbow would be if you were sitting in the passenger seat. The female half of the plugs are on the door panel. The male ends that I need to connect are part of the bundle that is connected to the door, they plug into the female halves of the plugs that are on the door panel. They might be part of the led courtesy lights that light up the door pull and the door pocket.

I haven’t been able to find a service manual or wiring diagram for this truck yet.

Phil

 

Let me know what systems you need wiring diagrams for and I’ll get you a PDF

 

Abran, thank you. I got the door control module and plugged it in. Wow, windows, speakers, mirror all worked. I got out the magnifying glass and studied the wires that had been cut on the two plugs that connected to the door handle mechanism. One had a green plug end with 5 black wires and the other had a grey plug end with two black wires, no stripes, or other markings. I watched too many episodes of CSI........I was able to match up the cut marks on the wires and match them up. Soldered, heat wrapped and plugged them in, bingo, the led courtesy lights and the door locks worked perfectly.

The computer doesn't think that the door is open. The air suspension adjusts perfectly, mirrors close in when the truck is locked, just like new.

Now to find the ipod/iphone cable (the oem version is pricey, ebay has chinese version for sale for $25, has anyone used them with success?) so that I can use my phone to stream or play downloaded music and two cupholder inserts.......That and a 2010 Owner's manual, again ebay has them for around $65.

Now to tackle the gas tank seal leak.........arrrrgh.

Thanks for the input.

Phil



Really happy with this truck.