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Old Jul 27, 2025 | 07:48 PM
  #11  
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Bad news. Got the rebuild done and everything buttoned up. Front dropped 2 inches in 3 hours. Only the front dropped, both sides the same. This would still point to the front valve block, right?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2025 | 07:52 PM
  #12  
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No, it would point to an air leak but not necessarily the valve block. But by now we have to assume you at least did the soapy water test on the block and struts?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2025 | 02:15 PM
  #13  
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In the works for the soapy water test.

I was just thinking that is it was an air strut, on side would be different than the other. But will be checking.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2025 | 07:39 PM
  #14  
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No, when one side leaks both go down because the other non-leaking has to take up the extra load. But sure, if one leaks A LOT then you will start to see a lean. Spray the struts on the very top and all around under that aluminum cover. The leaks can be hard to fine on these, unless at the very top. That implies an internal o-ring failed.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2025 | 01:16 PM
  #15  
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Found it! Drivers side spring is leaking from the bottom. So I’m guessing the next step is to replace. Now I have to decide if I have the ability to change out the springs or not. I’m afraid that I’ll get in a position that I can’t get out of, like not being able to get a bolt off, and then I’ll be stuck.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2025 | 07:24 PM
  #16  
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Best to replace in pairs or you may end up with some weird suspension undulation. As for swapping them, they are a pain but really not that hard to do. MUCH easier than spring coiled struts because you can dump the air in them and they will contract.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2025 | 11:17 PM
  #17  
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I am in the same boat in that I think my springs are leaking. Front drops within 30 minutes of turning the engine but the compressor is able to hold it while driving. I just tried to install a cheap valve block and that got rid of my consistent suspension fault. But it’s still dropping. I did the spray test on the springs but I don’t see anything. I know the dryer had been distributing white dust. Could I have a line clogged? Also, I have the gap tool. How best can I use it to test the issue? All I really see is more 100 percent from the front when the compressor is working. But it does eventually stop.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 11:17 AM
  #18  
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I can share my experience. I ended up rebuilding my front valve block and replacing my front air struts. Still was seeing significant drop in matter of hours but less so if left on off road hight and fuse pulled. I replaced my valve block with an Arnott unit and all is now good. Although I did find a small leak in one of the old struts, I think my problem was mostly from the valve block. The initial rebuild kit was somewhat suspect and I think that may have contributed to the rebuild failure.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 11:21 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Columbiar
I can share my experience. I ended up rebuilding my front valve block and replacing my front air struts. Still was seeing significant drop in matter of hours but less so if left on off road hight and fuse pulled. I replaced my valve block with an Arnott unit and all is now good. Although I did find a small leak in one of the old struts, I think my problem was mostly from the valve block. The initial rebuild kit was somewhat suspect and I think that may have contributed to the rebuild failure.
thank you….you replaced your front valve block? I have already replaced it but with aftermarket part. So it may be crap.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2025 | 11:59 AM
  #20  
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Yes, I replaced the front valve block with an Arnott unit. Still expensive but less so than genuine.


 
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