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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 07:14 PM
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Default Suspension fault

Almost every time I take the LR3 anywhere I immediately get a suspension fault code. Is there a way to check ride height sensors? I replaced the front air struts about 6 months ago and haven’t really driven much since
 
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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 09:13 PM
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What is the code?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
What is the code?
I’m not sure. The next time I get the fault I’ll check it and see
 
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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 11:30 PM
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Default It's prolly still there...

...just read it. Do you have a GAP tool? What does the EAS actually do when the fault is present?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by KyleP
I’m not sure. The next time I get the fault I’ll check it and see
Fault codes are stored in the ECU, so it'll be there regardless of whether the fault is present at that time. Without the fault codes you're wasting your time.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by houm_wa
...just read it. Do you have a GAP tool? What does the EAS actually do when the fault is present?

C1A20-64 pressure increase too slow when filling reservoir
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 05:37 PM
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That code can mean a few things.

Compressor dying but not pulling excess amperage yet.
Exhaust valve sticking open a bit.
Air leak.
Cracked dryer cap casing a leak.
Hole in reservoir tank. Reservoir pressure itself is not measured though, just gallery pressure.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
That code can mean a few things.

Compressor dying but not pulling excess amperage yet.
Exhaust valve sticking open a bit.
Air leak.
Cracked dryer cap casing a leak.
Hole in reservoir tank. Reservoir pressure itself is not measured though, just gallery pressure.

what's the best way to test a compressor
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 08:00 PM
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Rule out the cheap stuff: Taking DT's post as your starting point: Rule out a leak in the air tank by using soapy water to look for leaks in the obvious places/unions, etc. If you live in an area where the vehicle is subject to salt and corrosion, then the tank will rust out over time if not addressed. Those tests are free. After that, the next cheapest option is to rebuild the compressor (change the air dryer, etc). If the silica has failed then you may also need to change the seals on the front and rear valve blocks (o rings are readily available at about $20 from ebay). Lots of good info here and on the UK site (disco3.co.uk) and YT on how to do all of these tests/services. Kits are cheap. Start with that lot and see how you get on. Clear codes once you've done it and report back.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by pagoda
Rule out the cheap stuff: Taking DT's post as your starting point: Rule out a leak in the air tank by using soapy water to look for leaks in the obvious places/unions, etc. If you live in an area where the vehicle is subject to salt and corrosion, then the tank will rust out over time if not addressed. Those tests are free. After that, the next cheapest option is to rebuild the compressor (change the air dryer, etc). If the silica has failed then you may also need to change the seals on the front and rear valve blocks (o rings are readily available at about $20 from ebay). Lots of good info here and on the UK site (disco3.co.uk) and YT on how to do all of these tests/services. Kits are cheap. Start with that lot and see how you get on. Clear codes once you've done it and report back.
thanks for the help guys!
 
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