Relays do burn out so worth fitting a new one just to rule it out.

 

So I screwed up and pulled the wrong fuse. Meant to pull f26 but mistakenly pulled the in next to it. Dumb. Oh well, I doubt leaks are my main issue based on Dakota Travlers reply. Upon start up, the compression doesn’t even try to run. It’s like the computer recognizes it’s not running and produces the fault. So I’ll be taking off the passenger side wheel and wheel well liner to look for electrical wire problems.

By the way, is it correct that you only have to pull fuse f26 to disable the suspension?

I also do not have an f9 fuse in the slot. Truck came that way from the previous owner. Should there be a fuse there?

 

Center valve block has nothing to do with dropping, it only has the gallery pressure sensor and one solenoid for reservoir control. That is it.

You can generally fold back the wheel well liner, no need to remove the whole thing which is a bit of a pain. If you do remove the liner and have tire pressure monitoring, DO NOT FORGET TO DISCONNECT the antenna...

And yes, pretty sure F26 will disable the system. That is the one for the EAS ECU. It is the one I pull when I level my truck for camping.

 

Thanks. Hopefully I can find the right wires and the problem will be obvious so I can get rolling on other fixes.

 

And it probably is not wires, but the valve block(s) themselves. They leak and need to be rebuild or replaced. That is why pulling the fuse was recommended. With no fuse, the valve blocks can not operate on their own to level the truck.

 

Dakota Travler,

Tks for the suggestion of pulling back the inner liner rather than removing it. Quite a job to go that far. If I’m able to pull back the liner, where should I be looking for the suspect wires? Front or back?

tks

 

Front valve block is behind the front lower area of the passenger wheel well liner.

Main harness runs behind the rear lower of the driver liner. I guess for here you may end up pulling it because it may not like to bend.

Check wires. Pull on connectors to make sure they are even connected properly. Would not be the first time a connector is not seated properly and causes issues.

For the lowering issues, you will have to remove the front and rear valve blocks to rebuild, but that is something you can do later after checking on wiring. You may also want to pull the compressor cover and check the connectors there. One is power, but the other is exhaust power and temperature sensor and stuff.

 

You can just pull the battery cables in lieu of fuses, too. Just make sure all things (radio, HVAC, etc) are off before you shut down the engine, and then give it 20 min before you disconnect the battery.

 

Thanks all. Something is confusing me though. I can understand that the truck would lower if there was leaks. I will remove the fuse tonight and see. But the compressor isn’t even trying to run. Wouldn’t that indicate a bad wire or electrical connection vs a leaky valve block?

 

You are assuming you have one issue. If the truck is dropping, you have leaks. If the compressor is not running, you have other issues.