Sorry for not looking at your location before... I have this terrible habit of assuming that everybody on this forum is located in North America! But to answer your question, yes, the part number should be universal so any LR dealer should be able to look it up. There is a lot of good information on compressor replacement and/or "refreshing the compressor" (actually on the whole EAS system in general) on this forum and others. If you can narrow down the problem by getting the error codes, we might be able to point you to some helpful threads.

 

Just got an 09' about three weeks ago myself and had the same fault come up. The light would go out when the ignition was turned off and then come back on after a minute or two of running again. Took it back to the dealer and they have diagnosed and fixed the compressor. Before I took it I did some online research myself and found the compressor is only supposed to run for about 30 second or so when filling up and should give you a few lifts on one tank before it turns back on and had noticed that mine was running for much longer and more frequently so I thought that might be the issue before I brought it in.

 

My 06 has always run longer then 30 seconds. especially if I have done some height adjustments.

Still the original Compressor all software updated and a compressor refresh done.

 

thekurt2002:

Hi there, thanks for the post. Did you ever find out what was wrong with the compressor? I'm due to drop mine into the dealer in Qatar this week but they are so crap, if my previous experience is anything to go by. They don't fix things in Qatar; only replace. If you could advise if it were for example, the dryer unit, the compressor it's self, more gas required, dirty/dusty unit etc I would be grateful..

Best Wishes

 

Thanks cmb6s: I've found the part on Ebay, both UK and America and i am currently sourcing delivery options and timing. I may wait before pushing the button until it's been checked by an expert first.

Best Wishes

 

OK Chaps,

I'm done this a little **** about face, but I've gone and ordered the new Compressor kit without first checking the EXACT problem. (it's a new kind of pump apparently according to LR UK which is much better at holding out). I'm hedging my bets based upon your advice and what I have read elsewhere about my little problem.

I initially booked it into the garage here in Doha to let them check it but the soonest they could look was in 3 weeks time. (such as it is here in Qatar). I've kept the appointment in case it all goes wrong and i can limp it to the 'specialists'.

The kit, i'm told includes the following which should arrive in 3 days:

Dryer
AMK Compressor (obviously)
Wiring Harness
New Pipes
Relay, and
Mounting bracket

The kit cost 388 GBP with postage circa 40 GBP which i didn't think was too bad. (the trick is - if you pay for it with a non UK credit card you are tax exempt which saves you 20%+) postage excluded. I'm not sure if this will help my US cousins but if so, try it.

I also found this link below on the web yesterday to help me try this. (i have absolutely now experience with cars whatsoever). In fact i still get mixed up with which side the petrol flap is on when i fill up - sad i know. Why can't manufacturers all use the same dam side??? anyway, i'm digressing...

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - How To - AMK Suspension Compressor Replacement

I'm sure you guys have seen this before but for the newbies, I hope like me, it gives you confidence that this can be achieved with a little graft and patience. I'll update this thread when I finish. I'm a little worried and I'm thinking 'Hurt Locker' when i visualize how i'm gonna start and with what tools and the trickiness of it.. I'm digressing again, sorry

Anyway, back to the thread - I've also took the advice of cmb6s and have started to inquire regarding the diagnostic tool. I'm leaning towards a HawkEye system rather than the IID (BT) tool simply because a friend of mine has a RR and the HawkEye system will allow you to add upto 20 other LR's to the system (at a price of 150 GBP each) of course. However the IID tool is 389 GBP outright and the HE system is 250 GBP so I'm getting two for the price of one, in my mind which my friend can use (IF HE HELPS ME WITH MINE)

Apologies for the GBP costs but if you use the 1.69 conversion rate should should get an equivalent US $ cost.

The thing is - The IID system deffo says it re calibrates but the HE system doesn't really say such. I've heard that after the replacement is done, you may need to re-calibrate the suspension although the link above does not necessarily advise such.

Has anyone ever had to carryout this re-calibration exercise after replacement of the compressor unit?

Thanks again

 

If replacing the compressor I'd get a tool that will reflash the software on the ride level module. I don't believe that the iid can do this yet, and I know hawkeye cannot, because I had one. Maybe the hawkeye pro can?

What year is the RR?

I've got a nanocom and it supports P38 ranger rover and also I think the 2010 and newer L322, but not the BMW powered 2003-2005 or jag powered 2006-20009, I think.

 

Hey Superkev,

I just did pretty much everything that you are going to do on my LR3 the other day (except I just changed my desiccant and not my whole compressor). I was actually surprised at how easy and quick it was to drop the compressor. The one piece of advice I will give you in regards to removing the compressor is in the way I undid the top bolt that everybody says is a PITA. I found that it was easiest to use a 3/8" six inch long extension with a 10mm socket on the end. I oriented this extension/socket horizontal to the ground and facing from the front to rear of the car. Then, after removing the lower compressor cover, I managed to slide this extension/socket up between the outer edge of the compressor and the outer edge of the cover (for me outer edge = driver's/left side). I was then able to rotate the extension 90 degree and by looking up the INNER side of the compressor, I was able to see the bolt and put the socket on the bolt. Then, I attached my ratchet to the extension (there was juuuuuuust barely enough room) and wrenched away.

In order to put this bolt back, I did something similar... I attached the bottom two bolts of the bracket first, then I used some light duty painter's tape to just hold the lip of the bolt into the socket while trying to get it into it's place. Once the bolt was screwed in, the painter's tape easily released from the bolt head by giving it a firm tug.

Also, in regards to your tool selection and suspension calibration... I'm sure you will be happy with whatever tool you decide, but know that the IID tool is locked to one car for things like flashing the ECU with updated software, etc., but for just reading and clearing fault codes, it works on all Discovery 3s, no additional license needed. You can always purchase additional licenses for a fee if you with to do more than read/clear fault codes for the additional vehicles.

Suspension calibration is also pretty easy, though I can't think of why you would need to do that while replacing the compressor. Basically, you just adjust the offset of each suspension height sensor from the fault tool while going around the car and measuring the distance from the center of each hub cap to the top of the wheel arch. This distance should be 466mm for the front and 485mm for the rear (those are factory settings).

This post should make more sense once you get under the car and follow that other guide...

 

Oh, good call Jafir! You do need to update the software if you are swapping out the compressor to the newer model and yes, the IID tool WILL do this.

 

That's good to know. Do you have to use the new bluetooth version with an ipad to get this functionality? Also, is it automatic or do you have know which software to pick when updating a computer? That is my only complaint with nanocom is that you almost have to guess which software to load in some situations. It's pretty easy on the ride level module, but on the engine and transmission I still have to been too scared to try it.