Suspension in front drops…
My suspension in the front drops after 30 minutes or so of being lifted. I get the suspension fault error. I was thinking about doing the O rings on the suspension valve blocks but I am a little confused, is there only one valve block on the LR3? And if so, where is it located? Also, if there is only one, does aftermarket valve blocks work ok? I am thinking about just replacing the whole thing to make it easy.
there are 3 valve blocks, front, center and rear. You'd want to check your front valve block first, which you'll find if I recall correctly under the fender liner on the passenger side.
Most of the wisdom here will tell you to rebuild the valve block and NOT to get the cheap valve blocks, only use genuine LR parts.
My experience is that rebuilding them is a waste of time and something I do before I order a cheap one off Amazon which has worked for a yearish without a hitch.
Either way, you will want to replace the dryer beads in the compressor dryer assembly or the dryer itself.
Most of the wisdom here will tell you to rebuild the valve block and NOT to get the cheap valve blocks, only use genuine LR parts.
My experience is that rebuilding them is a waste of time and something I do before I order a cheap one off Amazon which has worked for a yearish without a hitch.
Either way, you will want to replace the dryer beads in the compressor dryer assembly or the dryer itself.
there are 3 valve blocks, front, center and rear. You'd want to check your front valve block first, which you'll find if I recall correctly under the fender liner on the passenger side.
Most of the wisdom here will tell you to rebuild the valve block and NOT to get the cheap valve blocks, only use genuine LR parts.
My experience is that rebuilding them is a waste of time and something I do before I order a cheap one off Amazon which has worked for a yearish without a hitch.
Either way, you will want to replace the dryer beads in the compressor dryer assembly or the dryer itself.
Most of the wisdom here will tell you to rebuild the valve block and NOT to get the cheap valve blocks, only use genuine LR parts.
My experience is that rebuilding them is a waste of time and something I do before I order a cheap one off Amazon which has worked for a yearish without a hitch.
Either way, you will want to replace the dryer beads in the compressor dryer assembly or the dryer itself.
so for you, you wish you had just ordered the ones to start with? Those O rings seem like would be a pain to replace. I might try the cheap replacements and keep the OEM in case those suck.
It's actually not hard to replace the O-rings, and it's probably worth a try first. If it works you're golden!
I also had the front drop in my rescue rover and ended up replacing the front air springs. It's not technically difficult but if your lower bolt through the wishbone is frozen or rusted in place it will take some effort to remove it....a couple hours worth on the drivers side.
I also had the front drop in my rescue rover and ended up replacing the front air springs. It's not technically difficult but if your lower bolt through the wishbone is frozen or rusted in place it will take some effort to remove it....a couple hours worth on the drivers side.
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ProducerCliff
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Aug 20, 2023 10:24 AM



