Hi all, I did a quick search and couldn't find a similar issue; my apologies if I missed it and am re-inventing the wheel. Here goes, here are my fault codes:

C1A33-01 (2E) Rear left corner valve - general failure information - general electrical failure

C1A38-01 (2E) Rear cross-link valve - General failure information - general electrical failure

Symptoms: suspension fault icon starts out yellow, then turns red at higher speed with another chime and message to keep speed below 30mph. Suspension remains in Normal height (only). The front end looks higher than the rear, particularly on the driver's side. When I clear the fault and try to actuate the suspension to get it level, the fault triggers and the EAS is unresponsive. I was hoping to do a quick calibration but because the fault comes back so quickly, I can't.

Anyone seen this? Anyone have ideas?

I have a valve block on order. I have rear height sensors lying around somewhere, too.

Thanks in advance!

-Houm

 

While still on my first cup of coffee, I surmise the following

The service manual shows:

C1A33-01 - Left Rear Corner Valve - General electrical failure
Rear left corner valve circuit short circuit to ground, open circuit, high resistance
Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the rear left corner valve circuit for
short circuit to ground, open circuit, high resistance

C1A38-01 - Rear Cross-Link Valve - General electrical failure
Rear axle cross link valve circuit short circuit to ground, open circuit, high resistance
Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the rear axle cross link valve circuit for
short circuit to ground, open circuit, high resistance

I would guess that you have one of the following:
1. Two bad solenoids in the valve block;
2. Two stuck solenoids causing high current/resistance
3, Corrosion in the connector;
4. Worn wires in the harness.

But I am sure you already knew that.

I would connect a diagnostic tool to the car and see if you can command the valve to move open and close.
Disconnect the valve from vehicle and see if you can directly add power to make the solenoids on the valves open on close.
Confirm wire continuity of the wire harness for the rear valve block;
Replace the valve block.

General Disclaimer: I might be wrong

Jeff

 

I’m a fan of the corrosion on the connector over a double solenoid fault but stranger things have happened

 

This all checks out, thanks guys. Sounds like while I wait for the part to arrive, I could get eyeballs on that wiring harness and wires to look for issues. Spraying it with contact cleaner probably wouldn't hurt, either. If that fixes it, I'll just keep the new (incoming) valve block as a spare.

I'm not sure how to command the valve block open/closed with the GAP Tool...has anyone done that? Would it still do so with an active EAS fault?

Thanks!

 

I bet your rear valve block is not fully plugged in. Do not try to push the connector on again, just pull on it and see if it comes off.

 

I was going to try some of these yesterday, but I stopped myself because I don't have the new part yet, and if I jack up the Rover and don't manage to fix the issue, it's going to be stuck with its *** up until I can R&R the valve block. I tried actuating the rear valves through the calibration process in the GAP but it would not respond.

 

You can use the "Service/Test" mode on the Gap Tool.
Select - Service/Test
Select - RLM suspension
Select - Test valves
Follow on screen instructions.

I don't think you can harm it and no need to leave it up on jacks

Jeff

 

Thanks Jeff I'll give that a try!

I noticed that in the Guided Calibration routine, the rear wouldn't respond to commanded changes (the front did) so I expect that I'll get the same results in Service/Test mode, but it's worth a try!

Also, I got my valve block yesterday, and plan to change it on Friday.

Cheers!

 

I played around in test mode. If I try to raise a rear corner or the entire rear the compressor activates but there is no movement. If I try to lower, I can hear the exhausting of air but again, no deflection.

New block goes in on Friday.

 

Did you check the connector yet? Not saying it could be it for sure, but this would not be the first time a rear block connector was not put on fully and worked its way off over time and cause these same issues. I say this because the valve blocks are not monolithic when it comes to wiring. While its one block, each and every valve is independently operated over wire - I would assume if any one wire is shared that could impact all the solenoids in the block, it would be ground.