So first off, I have a GAP tool. I've run diagnostics, but am a bit stumped.

Issue:

Suspension "dead" - no air, no response and "suspension fault" removing both raise/lower and special programs. Currently on bump stops.

So far I have:
1) Checked all fuses
2) Switched relay with another
3) Used GAP tool

No change.

With the GAP tool, i was able to verify that the compressor works. As per a post by @DakotaTravler I tried to use to the tool to do a guided calibration. The compressor fired and i could hear the valves clicking, but no inflation.

Also using the tool i was able to test the valves separately. They clicked but again no inflation.

So - i am stumped. There is something along the line that it doesn't like.

Simply throwing the switch in the cabin to raise the truck pings in error...and it also pings when first starting up (and leaving for about a minute) without touching anything....

Suspension errors are: C1A00-1D (2E) Control module - General electrical failure - circuit current out of range. Im wondering if anything may have become compromised in the wiring bundle (splice, etc). that gives feedback to the suspension module?

 

From that error code it does sound like you need to diagnose, for a start, power and grounds in the wiring to the suspension module, yes.

 

Does the Gap tool show the raise / lower switches in the console operating?

 

I will check this. I think they do, but I'll have to report back.

I did check the connector around the front horn that was fine.

But… found a post about checking the rear valve block given that error code. There was one, going on three more rubbed wires that I could see. It’s a nasty place to attempt a solder repair. (I can't seem to upload photos right now for some reason, but it's the block connector that plugs into the rear valve)

any hints/ tips for this?

 

 

May be able to crawl in from the back after removing the spare and get the wire pulled out enough to "comfortably" soldier it.

 

I like how “comfortably” is a relative term. In Land Rover speak that means “minimal scraping and cursing”.

 

Sure looks like the issue. I was going to ask if you have sensor rods installed, as that can cause all sorts of issues when on bump stops too. But I put money on that wiring being the issue.

 

See if you can push the pins out of the connector to make it easier to repair.

 

You can use a good crimp and heat shrink connector there if you don't want to solder - a heat gun melt solder and heat shrink connector is another option. But it does look like you'll have to depin at the connector since you don't really have any good wire left at the terminal....