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I agree that fixed short rods are only a short-term cheap lift and GAP IIDTOOL is superior in EVERYway (except cost). I lucked out and bought adjustable rods back back in the day.
The height sensors have a max range of 250-150 and 175 is 'ideal' normal ride height.
Due to sensor variations and sensor/frame mounting tolerances each corner is calibrated to level the truck during the alignment process.
So my sensors on each corner were last calibrated to (170, 191, 160, and 162).
GAP can only adjust the truck height up until the 1st sensor maxes out at 250, in my case +59
So, by setting the calibrations to 175 and using the adjustable links to level, my new max is +75
Now, I would never suggest setting or running that high, but while offroading wheel stuff and droop exercise the sensors range of motion. When one sensor goes beyond its max range the EAS goes into fault mode. Now that I reentered my sensors at (or very near) 175, I dont get these anymore.
I would be down with that. Im down at Uwharrie quite a bit. Im only about 30 mins north of there. I really don't do a ton of hard core rock crawling in the LR3 like I did in my jeeps.
Im just confussed with the fact that i do not need a lift with the bigger tires on the rig for daily driving.
Funny thing is when i got my rover i remember watching that video of your rig!
Im learning but there is alot involve on this that i don not want to mess up.
Great. For a long time used to daily drive 275/65r18 Good(for1)year Duratracs at factory stock height with just a "little trimming".
I still have 6 of those wheels/tires if you are interested. Will pm you...
Morris you explained it very well. Question: couldn't an LR3 that is calibrated such that it allows less adjustment simply be re-calibrated, referenced to some lower value? I feel like with the standard IIDTool method, that could be done. Also....I think the max of the range is 255, but that's just a detail.
@houm_wa
Good thought! Currently: {sensor resistance} - {calibration setting} = actual height
Maybe IF there there was a 2nd global calibration variable we could index the individual calibration up or down. LR probably wouldnt have baked that in.
If this was possible to do electronically in GAP IIDTOOL, you would still potentially get "out of range" EAS faults.
I am using the manually adjustable rods as that 2nd variable.
My method re-centers the sensors where the computers expects even though the truck is +1" (in my case)
Y'all are speaking LR fluently and apparently I'm just dabbling! HAHA
I will get there though!
So that second variable it to "trick" the height sensors to actually be equal at all corners? Thus the adjustable rods are a necessity. That would be to be more precise in dialing it in.
So the sensor resistance - the actual calibration setting is the actual height of the car. Can you read the sensor resistance from the gap tool? When is actually calibrating the rig necessary?
Main thing for you @scoutrover13 is determining the live values of your calibration/setting, and seeing how much adjustability it affords you. Remember you can go up to 255. So measure the distance from wheel hub to wheel arch with your initial calibration. Crank it up by the same amount in each corner such that the largest value in any corner is, say, 254, and measure again. That will tell you how much "lift" you got out of it.
Well I've only had the LR3 for 2 years I think, but all the same, I love it. Before that I've owned a multitude of jeeps. The jeeps are just so oversaturated here so I like the fact that I have a relatively unique vehicle again.
Ok so remove the rods and reinstall the factory ones then do my calibrations with a max range of 255 possible? correct.
If I feel it was done incorrect I can recalibrate back to factory and restart right?
09-17-2020 | 07:31 AM
