My 2005 LR3 with 82K miles threw a code saying, "Camshaft Position Sensor too far retarded".

None were available and truck ran fine, so about 1000 miles later I got the position sensors replaced and then took the truck to the dealer for a software upgrade and code reading (if any more were there).

Dealer said truck had jumped time, and that all they did with that was replace the whole engine. WTH?? They don't do timing chains and tensioners for fear that they won't do a good job??

Several people have said that the engines are the Ford Explorer engines and pretty bulletproof, and Advance Auto Parts has the chains and tensioners on hand.

a. Has anybody any experience with changing out chains and tensioners?

b. Is this a job that a Ford mechanic can do?

The only symptom (after driving 1000 miles and getting new spark plugs) is that letting off the gas causes some sputtering that's gotten worse in the past 300 miles.

The acceleration isn't as good off the line as my other LR3, either. I don't know if this is part of the timing, or a different deal.

Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I don't need to be spending the cost of the truck for a brand new crate engine.

 

UPDATE: took truck to the dealer for the timing chain/tensioner R&R. When dealer started the truck up, it spun the timing chain sprocket on the camshaft. Seems that the keyway had been slowly wallowing out until it finally backed out totally. Anyway, no valves were bent, but the camshaft would need replacing, along with other items. Dealer also noted a good bit of sludge in the engine, so a replacement engine was the ticket.

I found one locally for $3000, and it is in the truck as we write. Dealer won't do used engines, so a local shop did the swap. The shop is having a time getting the software
on the engine working right. It won't go past Idle speed.

Anybody have an idea about this? The shop is having a LR tech come over next week.

 

Your engine problems are getting interesting, you pay and we learn sort of thing. Is the replacement engine sourced from a Ford labelled vehicle or from a V6 LR3?

What I am getting at is that if the engine is from a Ford labelled vehicle and that you can just bolt on the Land Rover stuff, then there are an infinite number of available replacement engines out there at a reasonable price. I can understand the software being the hard part; fiddling with stuff you cannot see or touch.

 

Interesting...and expensive

The engine is a LR version; which begs the question of why it needs special tweaking in order to work properly. We should know more this week.

FWIW, during my shopping for timing chains and tensioners, both the Ford and LR dealer parts departments had the SAME part numbers for chains, etc.

Oddly, the LR pricing was lower than Ford prices; at least on these parts.

 

Timing chain removal procedure from the workshop manual:
Timing Drive Components (12.65.13)
Special Service Tools
Crankshaft rotating tool
303-674
Removal
NOTE :
Published : Oct 13, 2004
This procedure covers the removal and installation of the following components: Primary timing chain tensioner,
timing chain guide, jackshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and timing chain.
1 . Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Specifications (Section 414-
00)
2 . Remove the engine front cover. For additional information, refer to Engine Front Cover (12.65.01)
(Section 303-01)
3 . Remove the primary timing chain tensioner.
Remove the 2 bolts.
4 . Remove the primary timing chain tensioner guide.
Remove the 2 bolts.
Timing Drive Components Page 1 of 3
Installation
5 . Install the special tool to the crankshaft.
6 . Remove the jackshaft sprocket.
Using an additional wrench and the special tool, restrain the jackshaft sprocket.
Remove and discard the Torx bolt.
7 . NOTE :
Note the fitted position.
Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove the primary timing chain.
1 . Install the primary timing chain.
Clean the component mating faces.
Install the crankshaft sprocket, the recessed face locates to the crankshaft side.
Install the special tool to the crankshaft.
Timing Drive Components Page 2 of 3
2 . Install the jackshaft sprocket.
Clean the component mating faces.
Locate the primary timing chain to the sprockets.
Install a new Torx bolt, lightly tighten at this stage.
3 . Install the timing chain guide.
Clean the component mating faces.
Tighten the bolts to 20 Nm (15 lb.ft).
4 . Install the timing chain tensioner.
Clean the component mating faces.
Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (7 lb.ft).
5 . Tighten the new Torx bolt to 45 Nm (33 lb.ft), then a further 70 degrees.
6 . Install the engine front cover. For additional information, refer to Engine Front Cover (12.65.01)
(Section 303-01)
7 . Adjust the valve timing. For additional information, refer to Camshaft Timing (Section 303-01)
8 . Connect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Specifications (Section 414-00)
Timing Drive Components Page 3 of 3

 

I find that there does not seem to be any logic to Land Rover parts pricing. I do not know if it has something to do with Sterling pricing conversions or if my cookie jar theory is more valid. I just think someone in accounting has a cookie jar full of numbers and when they need a price, they just pull a number from the jar.

There are also similar disparities between Jaguar and Land Rover pricing. Sometimes my dealer uses the Jag part number for some item and vice versa as the pricing can vary significantly between two identical parts.

 

I haven't seen the engine, but here's what is going to need fixing (minimum):

Timing chain and tensioner on the RH side.
I imagine that the camshaft keyway is wallowed out, so camshaft, too
Timing sprockets.

Anybody have an interest in a 4.0L core?

 

I have had a few of these cases and now remove the engine, put it on a stand, replace the chains, gears, tensioners, and guides, inspect the woodruff key grooves and anything else that could cause a problem. Always remember to rotate the engine by hand at least four full revolutions before checking all timing marks again. These engines are not the most intelligent design I have ever seen from a servicing perspective, and not too durable, either.