My brother and I purchased a 2007 LR3 that had a 135K miles. The truck runs great and had no issue and no warning lights. One day, the truck was having charging issues while my brother was driving. Various warning messages started displaying that system were shutting down. Luckily, my brother was able to make it home. My brother changed the alternator a couple of days later and recharged the battery and everything was fine except the TPMS warning kept flashing CHECK ALL TYRES PRESSURE.
My brother took it to the tire shop. They said the RR sensor was not triggering. We decided to purchase 5 new sensors from RockAuto.com but they were 433MHz. We took the car to Mavis, but the could not be activated. They came back and told us the FL and Spare sensor were bad. So we changed those to with Autel Mx-Sensors 315MHz. When I left the shop, same message again: TPMS warning kept flashing CHECK ALL TYRES PRESSURE.
I called Land Rover the parts service department told me many people come back with TPMS problems when the put aftermarket sensors. The only thing each sensor cost $131!
I decided to search thru the forums and heard someone had no issues with VDO/Continental. So I crossed reference the TPMS sensors and (5) VDO/Continental SE52081 sensors.
I have an Autel MaxiPRO MP808TS. So, I was able to trigger each sensor prior to installing. They all worked.
I immediately removed all the tires and took it to a reputable tire shop to install. I basically matched each triggered sensor to the proper wheel. Once installed on the truck, I check all the tire pressures to make sure they match the placard even the spare. I then re-triggered the sensors from LF, RF, RR, LR and spare with the sensors installed and the proper air pressure. I also did an OBD relearn and said it was successful. The last step was to drive it around Test Drive above 19 mph (30km/h) for at least 10 minutes, BUT THE LIGHT WILL NOT TURN OFF.
I have not TPMS DTCs
While I was driving, I activated the live data in the TPMS. I noticed the following:
Tire pressure wheel unit 1: 318 kpa
Tire pressure wheel unit 2: 321 kpa
Tire pressure wheel unit 3: 384 kpa
Tire pressure wheel unit 4: 380 kpa
I converted the kpa to psi:
Tire pressure wheel unit 1: 46.122 psi
Tire pressure wheel unit 2: 46.557 psi
Tire pressure wheel unit 3: 55.695 psi
Tire pressure wheel unit 4: 56.419 psi
I manually check each tire:
LF = 33 psi
RF = 33 psi
RR = 42 psi
LR = 42 psi
Spare = 60 psi
Another thing I noticed in live data:
Low frequency initiator system status – low frequency status front left – occasionally flashed “active” but mostly “inactive”.
Low frequency initiator system status – low frequency status front right – “inactive”
Low frequency initiator system status – low frequency status rear right – “inactive”
Low frequency initiator system status – low frequency status rear left – “inactive”
Questions:

1. The TPMS ECU live data psi does not match MaxiPRO MP808TS triggered data nor the hand air pressure gauge data?
2. Can I use the Autel MaxiPRO MP808TS to turn off the TPMS given it is before 2009?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. My brother and I do all our own work.

 

First, the SE52081 is indeed a proper sensor. Those are the same I bought for mine and have been trouble free for years. Second, the system learning is hot or miss but it will adapt sometimes a couple miles sometimes 20 miles. At least if not forcing it. Third, the pressures - no one can figure out the disparity between live data and real gauge readings. Same thing happens on the GAP tool.

Lastly, your issues sounds more like a bad TPMS module. They have a very high failure rate, probably the most common ECU to fail on the LR3. It can cause the dash light to flicker, random errors and all sorta of stuff. Its probably just a coincidence that it happened around the time of the alternator swap. So check over the data and approach it with that in mind, a bad ECU, and see if that makes more sense.

 

Thanks Dakota for the recommendation. I was wondering if there was a way to check the initiators in each wheel well since the Autel Live data shows they are all “inactive” other than the LF which occasionally shows “active” but mostly “inactive”. Also, if there are any tests to check the TPMS ECU that you may know of before I aim and fire the parts cannon?

thanks again for the help!

 

I have not played around with my GAP tool to know what can and can not be checked. Never an issue with my TPMS module. Someone else with an Autel may have to chime in.

 

I went ahead and purchased a used TPMS module NWW501987 from a clean donor car for about $80. New was around $250 and up. I will post an update after install.

 

SOLVED. It was the TPMS module. I was lucky enough to purchase a used one for $80. The light went away immediately. I can see why they fail. There is a circuit board inside the TPMS module and it is fastening to the roof. I can only imagine how hot it gets up there. Anyways, thanks Dakota for the tip!

 

Thanks for the update!

 

I'm curious...have the same problem...did you drop the headliner or did you go thru the rear A/C control unit space...if so, does it just pull out? Anyone worked out a rewiring solution to move it to a side panel instead of the ceiling?

 

I basically removed the A pillar, loosen the b pillar and lower the seat belt height to the lowest setting, loosened the c pillar. You will need to pull out the weatherstripping slightly near each pillar. Removed all the handles on the left hand side, removed removed the sun visor. I have an entertainment unit on the top. I had to disconnect that and kind of let it hang supported. Then you can gently tug on the headliner edges and it will unclip. It will hand low enough for you to see the Tpms and remove.

 

Thanks. I am going to try to go in by removing the rear AC switch unit. I will post with pix if I can get that to work.