Need help diagnosing and fixing this. Transmission was run with low oil. Just changed oil pan/filter, and refilled with 6 qts.

Going from Park, to R or drives takes a little to engage. Changing from R to D also takes a bit, sometimes it jolts.
All are symptoms of low fluid level, level is okay, but will check again.

The problematic issue is Shifts are... so so, bit inconsistent Sometimes smooth and sometimes little rough. 1-3 are are okay(after initial grab), Transmission refuses to go into fourth, and throws a code 3-4 Shift solenoid. If i delete code, it will sometimes shift into 4th. After that, its perfect.

Here are some scenarios(deleted codes between). Transmission does not slip at all. Seems to be electrical.
1. Drive Normally, get to 30-35, car wants to shift into 4th, check engine flashes, get gears reduced. Until i clear codes, car refuses to shift to 4th even if i baby it.
2. If i go into manual, get to 30-35 in 3rd, while under normal acceleration try to shift into 4th, throws error.
3. If i go into manual, get to 30-35 in 3rd, lets go of accelerator and then switch to 4th, it will switch to 4th, rest of gears work perfect.

Please advise. How do i fix these 2 issues, might be related to each other.
Change 3-4 solenoid? maybe its clogged or weak?
What could cause the D and R to take long to engage? Weak Tranny oil pump? Should i put a lucas to increase oil viscosity?

P.S. I made a separate post because this is something i need help with. All other things as well as a bit more background on the car can be found here
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...56/#post866997

 

6 quarts? My changes have use a little more than that. With engine running and warm, check the level again.

 

Yes, i will recheck fluid level tomorrow or friday.

I haven't really run it hot due to the fact that i seem to have a coolant leak and i am pretty sure there is air in the coolant system. After 10-15 mins of the car being on, temp gauge only showing about 2/5ths instead of around half so i am not trying to push my luck until i find coolant leak and properly air system out.

When i installed the pan, i let car idle for 10 mins or so, then i check the level running the gears around twice for like 15 seconds. Now that i think about it.. i should have rechecked level after driving it, but it was already like 10pm.

Still worried about 3-4 shift solenoid.

 

Well if a solenoid is bad, replace it. But it could be anything else. Just need to really verify fluid level first and go from there. If you do end up replacing a solenoid, best to do em all. A set is not super expensive. But I believe the valve body has to be dropped to pull em. At which point you may as well refurbish the valve body and put new body to housing seals on, seals are really cheap.

 

Sounds similar to what i was experiencing, rebuilt the valve body with new solenoids and sonnax zip kit and now shifts great.

 

Purchased the solenoids from rockauto.

Should be here early next week.

 

I would do the rest as well, are the solenoids genuine or refurbished ?

 

yes i am doing all of them.

I don't know. Whatever Rockauto sells...
ZF 1068298044 Includes Pressure Regulators & Solenoid Valves Info
AWD; Trans. Code 6HP26X

Oem?

 

I just checked and yes they are genuine so no problem there, see lots on amazon and ebay but most are either chinese replacements or refurbs.
I meant separator gasket and zip kit, well worth doing while you have the valve body out, fyi you cant order the plate until you remove the valve body to get the correct code off it.

 

I got the little tubes, square gasket piece and plug.

What is this plate? and zip kit thing? separator gasket? you mean to open the Valve body?