Thanks! Looks like a reasonable (and simple) thing to check. Poor ground would reasonably cause intermittent issues. There are some other good tips there about where to check the CAN Bus wiring should I need to get that far.

 

These sleeves are a real pain to get re-latched inside the transmission! I have struggled with these on Ford transmissions too. Getting them lined up straight, with the perfect amount of evenly applied pressure always seemed much harder than it should be to me. On my LR3, I had to strategically place a pry bar on the sleeve and pry harder than I thought I should in order to get it to latch.

I only bring this up because of the info toward the end of this document. If the grounds and CAN circuits check out good, you may need a close inspection at the connector.

http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/th...eplacement.pdf

 

Hmmmmmmmm.

Here is my connector. I wonder if some of my pins are pushed in —thus a bad connection? Comparing my photo to the last in that pdf. Notice I have 3 pin holes that look empty, including Pin location 14. All the holes in that ZF document photo look full. 😳

 

This barrel #16 looks like there's a pin stuck in it.

 

The CTSC doc references multiple transmission configurations. Here's the pinout from TCM side from the LR3 book.

 

From this photo (taken on the side of the trail 2 weeks ago), pin 14 looks pushed in and something is definitely “off” with 16. Hopefully it’s not a broken pin. I’m returning home from a work trip, I’m both excited and nervous to check the connector out this weekend.

Here’s a video from Gary Ferraro (amazing transmission mechanic) discussing the repair for a broken TCU pin:

 

Problem found!

Ground pin (#14) is sunk in the connector plug. TCM pins are OK. I think it was a bit of ATF that made pin #16 look broken off.

Any thoughts on how to reseat the female end of this lead?

 

Glad you found that!

I have no special ideas on how to get it to stay up. Like most automotive connectors, there’s probably a metal latch or tang that can be spread wide for a better lock. You’d have to pull that wire all the way out of the connector to inspect, spread, and reinsert.

 

It should, in theory, snap back into place. For it to not then there is a broken catch and a replacement connector may be needed. There is decent force on those pins when connecting, but you could try to use some JB weld or other such super high temp compound from the backside to act as a plug to prevent the wire from pushing out. Great care would be needed. I am thinking the JB Weld metal repair may work best since its high temp and like clay, so its workable without running all over the place.

 

Wire would not go further into the connector but easily slipped right out the back. I think it left the factory not installed properly and it was “fine” until I removed it to replace the valve body seals. Very glad this didn’t manifest itself when I took the family on vacation in August.

The white retainer clip should withdraw and let me push the wire back in, but I cannot get it to move beyond 1/8”. Rather than force anything and make more trouble for myself, I think I’m going to leave it alone until Monday and see if I can find someone to make a house call.