Hey all. I've seen multiple threads on the importance of changing the oil, filter, and pan of my LR3. I've also been advised to change my fluids, often. So, my brother has a lift (bonus), but he lives 4 hours away (not such a bonus).

I have to make a somewhat intelligent decision based on time, cost of fuel, cost of parts, vs. having someone do it for me. That aside:

There's reference that I have to lift the transmission to remove the pan and filter. I've read the manual that shows how to remove the pan/filter, but there wasn't detail on lifting the t-mission. Do I loosen the engine mounts, then lift the engine slightly? Do I need to drop the exhaust a bit, too?

Also, there was some talk on having a chain flush and change the fluid. I'm assuming that isn't the best of ideas as they won't use the LR recommended fluid, right?

I'm no stranger to moving an engine and dropping a transmission. I just need logistical confirmation on how to best go about doing this as I am completely unfamiliar to Land Rovers.

I've had mine for a week, today, so it's like a, well, birthday! Have I mentioned that I really like this vehicle??

 

I assume that you have read the thread per the link below?

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...g-dang-64392/?

While I gather the 3 is new to you, I am pleased that you will most likely be using a hoist.

I presume that air suspension is not new to you so you understand the value of having the 3 supported by the frame and the wheels drooping down loose so to speak.

A link within one of the posts per above provides some info on the ZF 6HP26 tranny and how it is different from say a Powerglide when it comes to changing the oil.

Too little oil, eventually, (well fairly quickly), no go; too much oil even though there is no oil dip stick, excess oil finds a way out once it heats up and the effective results are about the same as too little oil.

A Land Rover can be a bit like a new girlfriend - the relationship can sour quickly if not handled with care.

 

I just had my tranny serviced this week. They changed the filter/pan, drained some number of quarts and replaced. After watching what they had to do and the cost of the pan and tranny fluid, I am glad that I paid to have it done. By the way, they did not have to remove the exhaust, they did loosen the union on the pipes just under the rear of the tranny. Good luck. Phil

 

I did read it. Planned on replacing the cap, too. I read another article about a set of seals that should be done while it was down...

The air suspension is very new to me. So, I should support the wheels or suspension when it is up? My guess would be to save weight by taking off the wheels and figuring out a way to (gently) support the hubs. Do you have hints?

I also read that not only is the oil level critical, but the temp of the system must be right, too. I don't have a reader of any sort. Is there a manual way to do this?

 

It sounds like you have done more reading up on your 3 than I anticipated. It is a lady to be wary of.

Attached are a few pdf's re the tranny that may be of interest.

Re oil temperature, that is apparently the key to correct filling. Basically one removes the old pan/filter combo and gets the new one on - that being not so easy in itself and then the filling is the next concern.

It appears you fill it as best you can, run the engine with the tranny in neutral so the various channels and filter fills up, add more oil, run the engine again, keep doing so for a few cycles.

At some point the tranny will not want more oil but start kicking oil out the fill port. As to how much, that is the temperature thing. Some guys use an infrared heat gun pointed somewhere, others go by touch - that is the art stuff and I am not an artist, but the tranny temperature or I guess more correctly, transmission oil temperature seems to be how you know when the correct amount of oil is in there.

Others might beable to help you with the temperature determination. Two of the pdf's attached are about all I have read found re oil temperature.

Re the air suspension, my comments were of a safety nature. Nothing bad happens when the wheels hang down. Having them hanging is also the safest way to work on the 3.

Some confuse the air system with metal springs - that is nothing ever lets go and the vehicle cannot just drop. With any air suspension system, anything can let go anytime. In the case of the 3, the book says that with doors open or some such dream, that the air system is not supposed to vent. What they neglect to mention is that the auto level system is still functioning and that venting can occur regardless.

Even with the battery disconnected, (a good idea I might add), air can still release from the system but in that case, it will be mechanical failure rather than some computer waking up. In other words, whenever under the 3, you want the 3 supported via the frame, not the wheels.

 

I believe the official way to take the LR3 temperature whilst checking/adjusting the transmission fluid level is to make use of one of the bespoke electronic tools (SDD) that can read the appropriate temperature sensor in the transmission. I guess an infrared thermo is better than nothing but with something as important as the transmission I might be tempted to leave it to the tooled up.

 

I have my tranny pan and oil changed by the independent that my dealer subs his ZF work out to.

As best I could determine, the shop measured the oil temperature by what I would call experience / feel. When you do it year after year, you know what is right; when it is a first time, that is very different.

I might add, that is why my dealer subs his tranny work out - there is fortunately not enough of it for them to get good at it.

 

I have an infrared thermometer from my nitro r/c days that is relatively accurate at surface temps, within about 2 deg. F. + or -. I used to be a Sous Chef in an other life, and I'm still OK with temps to touch, but cooking something to a certain degree is a lot different than a multi-thousand dollar mistake. It makes me wonder, however, if the tip of a meat thermometer touching the oil would good enough for the task...

I'll have to think about ways to support the wheels when we get it on the lift. My brother and I have had some "creative" ideas growing up - most of which got us in trouble. It was a relief to the family that we live in different states at this point. Just far enough away to mitigate shenanigans.

Anyway, I digress. I'm still very much up for the work. And as another aside, I just went to Indianapolis, today, which was 4 1/2 hours on the road. It shifted like butter the whole time. I swear that I've never been in a vehicle that was so smooth. The LR3 kicked down the one time that I needed to - with no hesitation, jerks, or noise. The diffs don't whine. I think that I just want to stay ahead of the curve.

Oh, and bbyer: that's actually encouraging that there isn't enough t-work to do in house

 

Yes, that was my first thought and there is some truth in it. Over the years however, I now gather that whenever they do try to fix a tranny in house, something bad happens. Bad being defined as they have not been successful sticking Land Rover Warranty with the eventual fix cost and they cannot go after the LR owner either.

Re the wheels, the ideal situation is to have the wheels hanging in the air drooping down unsupported. That means regardless of the mood of the air system, you will not require any spare fingers to complete the tasks at hand.

Attached is a jacking pdf that you can print out. The four points marked D have holes in the underside of the frame that a hoist can pin into.

Also be careful just forward of the rear left wheel that the lift arm does not contact the black plastic air compressor cover that hangs down. The snapping sound will be the U shaped aluminum air compressor support breaking, jpg below.

I have also had one tyre shop lift the rear using the cast alloy rear differential as a jacking point. No, the 3 is not a 1952 Chev pickup or similar, nor is it a front wheel drive either - and this was after I showed them where to lift and where not to lift - but they knew better. Next day I took them a drawing of the rear end. It was better than yelling, (actually I was crying), and I think the guys were surprised at what was inside and maybe it did matter. As it turned out, no harm as done but then it was only on the way up and no tyre work had been done, hence no rocking or reefing.

 

Thanks a lot for your help, Bbyer. When I get the project underway, I'll post pics as it progresses. I won't be starting it for a few months as the one thing that my brother's work space is lacking is sustainable heat.