Transmission Pan Bolt Failure
#1
Transmission Pan Bolt Failure
Hey guys today I was swapping the transmission filter and pan out for Atlantic British's conversion kit. I was literally on the last bolt when the thing just broke off. Of course its the front driver side corner so the frame blocks any kind of drilling. Any ideas on how to get it out? Thanks!
#2
suck.
I assume these are the shorter ones that should be included with the metal pan, not the originals from the plastic pan?
if you remove the pan - is there enough sticking out to get a bolt-out socket onto?
one that bites the outsides - not the "screw out" type that bites the internal stripped portion that sometimes requires a drill?
either that or remove the crossmember to get access.
if you succeed in removing it - perhaps replace ALL with better grade hardware.
best of luck - I hate removing broken screws/bolts.
I am also including a link to the correct torque spec and pattern, if you didn't already have it. See p9.
http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/th...eplacement.pdf
I assume these are the shorter ones that should be included with the metal pan, not the originals from the plastic pan?
if you remove the pan - is there enough sticking out to get a bolt-out socket onto?
one that bites the outsides - not the "screw out" type that bites the internal stripped portion that sometimes requires a drill?
either that or remove the crossmember to get access.
if you succeed in removing it - perhaps replace ALL with better grade hardware.
best of luck - I hate removing broken screws/bolts.
I am also including a link to the correct torque spec and pattern, if you didn't already have it. See p9.
http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/th...eplacement.pdf
Last edited by douglastic; 04-15-2020 at 03:09 PM.
#3
Same happened to me!!!
Seems to be recurrent on some of those bolts... rather pay a little more than have brittle bolts...
suck.
I assume these are the shorter ones that should be included with the metal pan, not the originals from the plastic pan?
if you remove the pan - is there enough sticking out to get a bolt-out socket onto?
one that bites the outsides - not the "screw out" type that bites the internal stripped portion that sometimes requires a drill?
either that or remove the crossmember to get access.
if you succeed in removing it - perhaps replace ALL with better grade hardware.
best of luck - I hate removing broken screws/bolts.
I am also including a link to the correct torque spec and pattern, if you didn't already have it. See p9.
http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/th...eplacement.pdf
I assume these are the shorter ones that should be included with the metal pan, not the originals from the plastic pan?
if you remove the pan - is there enough sticking out to get a bolt-out socket onto?
one that bites the outsides - not the "screw out" type that bites the internal stripped portion that sometimes requires a drill?
either that or remove the crossmember to get access.
if you succeed in removing it - perhaps replace ALL with better grade hardware.
best of luck - I hate removing broken screws/bolts.
I am also including a link to the correct torque spec and pattern, if you didn't already have it. See p9.
http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/th...eplacement.pdf
#4
#5
#6
I just did my pan swap last night, along with new solenoids and valve body seals. I bought the ZF OEM metal pan/filter/hardware kit instead of the aftermarket. It was a bit more expensive, but it did come with oem grade hardware. Fit and finish were also great. Aftermarket parts can be so hit-miss!
I just wish I had a stubby Torx socket last night. Those front and rear pan bolts are a nightmare! No way to get a torque wrench on those either. tracyc is right, probably just should have removed the crossmember. I also used the Ford-style pan gasket with the aluminum frame and rubber seal instead of the fiber gasket that came with the kit.
Hope you found a way to get to your broken bolt.
I just wish I had a stubby Torx socket last night. Those front and rear pan bolts are a nightmare! No way to get a torque wrench on those either. tracyc is right, probably just should have removed the crossmember. I also used the Ford-style pan gasket with the aluminum frame and rubber seal instead of the fiber gasket that came with the kit.
Hope you found a way to get to your broken bolt.
#7
I just did my pan swap last night, along with new solenoids and valve body seals. I bought the ZF OEM metal pan/filter/hardware kit instead of the aftermarket. It was a bit more expensive, but it did come with oem grade hardware. Fit and finish were also great. Aftermarket parts can be so hit-miss!
I just wish I had a stubby Torx socket last night. Those front and rear pan bolts are a nightmare! No way to get a torque wrench on those either. tracyc is right, probably just should have removed the crossmember. I also used the Ford-style pan gasket with the aluminum frame and rubber seal instead of the fiber gasket that came with the kit.
Hope you found a way to get to your broken bolt.
I just wish I had a stubby Torx socket last night. Those front and rear pan bolts are a nightmare! No way to get a torque wrench on those either. tracyc is right, probably just should have removed the crossmember. I also used the Ford-style pan gasket with the aluminum frame and rubber seal instead of the fiber gasket that came with the kit.
Hope you found a way to get to your broken bolt.
#8
No part numbers listed unfortunately, just their "conversion kit" line item
I remember not seeing it on their website since I got mine, maybe I got lucky with my timing
But they always gave me quick replies with help with questions answered
They even answered their phone
The following users liked this post:
SeattleDriver (05-25-2022)
#9
CTSC's website says, "email for availability" on the OEM kit. I could not find an email or phone number on their website. Twice I sent a message through their "Contact us" and never received a reply. I ordered the ZF kit, ATFCKOME from RoverParts.com. This came with good hardware, a ZF stamped filter #0501 213 359, and a ZF stamped pan that I meant to take a picture of the part number, but I didn't. I'll see if I can get a shot of it in the next couple of days. I wasn't sure from Atlantic British's description if I was getting only a ZF filter and an aftermarket pan and hardware, but I was pleasantly surprised that the whole kit was ZF.
I did order the solenoid kit which includes the white foam strip (1068 298 044 03) from CTSC along with the 6HP26x rectangular bridge seal (0501 219 952 01). I got the tube seals, connector sleeve, and pan gasket from Ford:Pan gasket Part #: BL3Z7A191C
Short Tube Part #: 9L3Z7G199A x 2
Medium Tube Part #: 9L3Z7G087A x 1
Long Tube Part #: 9L3Z7G084A x 1
Connector Sleeve Part #: 6L2Z7G276AA x 1
Jury's out on the gasket. I really like the Ford style gasket. I have used several on the ZF's in my Ford family fleet with zero leaks. The ZF pan has a bead rolled into the perimeter that I'm pretty sure the Ford pans do not have. I'm unclear if this bead will cause less compression of the rubber seal and result in a leak. I'll know in a few days. Also, I used Mercon SP (RockAuto by the case), and filled to the original fill hole on the side of the transmission housing (at about 108°F on the scan tool). There's talk about using the new pan's fill hole instead, and a risk of overfilling if you don't. I couldn't make sense of this no matter how hard I tried, so I used the original fill hole.
I did order the solenoid kit which includes the white foam strip (1068 298 044 03) from CTSC along with the 6HP26x rectangular bridge seal (0501 219 952 01). I got the tube seals, connector sleeve, and pan gasket from Ford:Pan gasket Part #: BL3Z7A191C
Short Tube Part #: 9L3Z7G199A x 2
Medium Tube Part #: 9L3Z7G087A x 1
Long Tube Part #: 9L3Z7G084A x 1
Connector Sleeve Part #: 6L2Z7G276AA x 1
Jury's out on the gasket. I really like the Ford style gasket. I have used several on the ZF's in my Ford family fleet with zero leaks. The ZF pan has a bead rolled into the perimeter that I'm pretty sure the Ford pans do not have. I'm unclear if this bead will cause less compression of the rubber seal and result in a leak. I'll know in a few days. Also, I used Mercon SP (RockAuto by the case), and filled to the original fill hole on the side of the transmission housing (at about 108°F on the scan tool). There's talk about using the new pan's fill hole instead, and a risk of overfilling if you don't. I couldn't make sense of this no matter how hard I tried, so I used the original fill hole.
The following 2 users liked this post by P-Bod:
SeattleDriver (05-26-2022),
tracyc (05-25-2022)