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Water dripping from the glovebox

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  #11  
Old 12-08-2021, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by wichipong
So far I’ve replaced the air suspension compressor (i believe i opted for the Arnott one), 2 front suspension bags, alternator, front sunroof drain, and soon the cowl.. will be doing the front brakes (pads and rotors) soon.. and a long overdue oil change…
Ok cool nothing major, lets just hope its the same for me.
I just recently did my brakes and rotors myself. I bought this kit right here.
https://www.carparts.com/details/Lan.../P15K4059.html

It came with everything ( rubber boots for caliper pins, grease, and the metal guides) plus it came with 4 brake sensors so now I have 2 spares. Only thing I had to buy extra were the rotor bolts. For like 7 dollars at antlatic British. Stops on a dime now and virtually no brake dust.
However when I was jacking up the front driver side I heard an air leak coming from the shock. So thats one more thing added to the list lol.

 
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Old 12-08-2021, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirtking
Ok cool nothing major, lets just hope its the same for me.
I just recently did my brakes and rotors myself. I bought this kit right here.
https://www.carparts.com/details/Lan.../P15K4059.html

It came with everything ( rubber boots for caliper pins, grease, and the metal guides) plus it came with 4 brake sensors so now I have 2 spares. Only thing I had to buy extra were the rotor bolts. For like 7 dollars at antlatic British. Stops on a dime now and virtually no brake dust.
However when I was jacking up the front driver side I heard an air leak coming from the shock. So thats one more thing added to the list lol.
i am looking into doing the fronts. looking just regular rotors and maybe ceramic pads.. They say cross drilled/slotted rotors eat up pads more so i might stay away from those.. Looking at a Zimmerman Rotor/Ferodo pads set from FCPEuro but as i mentioned, sourcing out parts at the moment..
 
  #13  
Old 12-08-2021, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by wichipong
i am looking into doing the fronts. looking just regular rotors and maybe ceramic pads.. They say cross drilled/slotted rotors eat up pads more so i might stay away from those.. Looking at a Zimmerman Rotor/Ferodo pads set from FCPEuro but as i mentioned, sourcing out parts at the moment..
Oh I've never heard of that. I've used them on my other vehicles in the past and haven't noticed a difference. I just get them because I like the look and I figured the slots will help when I'm going through dirt. I know some people say your stopping power is compromised since you loose surface area, while true I dont notice it. I even hear people say they are lighter, also true but its not even perceivable when your holding them. They still weigh a ton lol.
 
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Old 12-08-2021, 11:05 AM
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....y'all don't wash your cars with Water down in CA?

Fix that ****! It's easy and you're both over-thinking it. Get a sheet of thin plexiglass. Cut it to size and epoxy it onto the pollen filter box. Done and done. It isn't visible once the cowl goes on, anyway.
 
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Old 12-08-2021, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by houm_wa
....y'all don't wash your cars with Water down in CA?

Fix that ****! It's easy and you're both over-thinking it. Get a sheet of thin plexiglass. Cut it to size and epoxy it onto the pollen filter box. Done and done. It isn't visible once the cowl goes on, anyway.
i do wash the car.. I have the materials too to make the shield too.. I’m just over-thinking it. It s just that it wasn’t deigned to have one for some reason and I’m trying to understand why. Lol.
 
  #16  
Old 12-08-2021, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirtking
Oh I've never heard of that. I've used them on my other vehicles in the past and haven't noticed a difference. I just get them because I like the look and I figured the slots will help when I'm going through dirt. I know some people say your stopping power is compromised since you loose surface area, while true I dont notice it. I even hear people say they are lighter, also true but its not even perceivable when your holding them. They still weigh a ton lol.
I’ve had a modified car before the Land Rover. I know it looks good and that it is suited for “performance” vehicles. I just need the brakes to
work for an SUV I drive in most weekends or going up to Tahoe or when I need to haul something…
 
  #17  
Old 12-08-2021, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by houm_wa
....y'all don't wash your cars with Water down in CA?

Fix that ****! It's easy and you're both over-thinking it. Get a sheet of thin plexiglass. Cut it to size and epoxy it onto the pollen filter box. Done and done. It isn't visible once the cowl goes on, anyway.
Haha I do. But for some reason the water appeared when it rained or maybe it had enough time to pool in the filter then onto the floor. True, I didn't think of that. I guess I'll go see whats available at homedepot.
 
  #18  
Old 12-08-2021, 12:38 PM
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@wichipong Yeah....it wasn't designed to have a shield, because the cowl was designed to prevent water ingress to that area. Well, guess what....that cowl design didn't work. Things happen, and when the factory doesn't revise the part, we owners have to modify.

@Dirtking for some reason the water appeared when it rained? Ummm....yeah it appeared because enough water got past the cowl and ran into the pollen filter box and onto the floor. The angle you're parked can exacerbate that, as well. Just Physics...
 
  #19  
Old 12-08-2021, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by houm_wa
@wichipong Yeah....it wasn't designed to have a shield, because the cowl was designed to prevent water ingress to that area. Well, guess what....that cowl design didn't work. Things happen, and when the factory doesn't revise the part, we owners have to modify.
What do you think is better to do? do the RTV sealant route or do the butyl tape? weighing options on what is easier.. adding the butyl tape to the cowl/molding appears to be easier to do...
 
  #20  
Old 12-08-2021, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by wichipong
What do you think is better to do? do the RTV sealant route or do the butyl tape? weighing options on what is easier.. adding the butyl tape to the cowl/molding appears to be easier to do...
I was thinking the tape too. The last owner used some type of sealant to fix the issue a while back. Now it just looks like its going to be a pain in the *** to get off.
 


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