Originally Posted by bbyer

You do have a lot of miles on your 3 and by the sound of it, have not had too many real problems. I can only presume you have done lots of preventative maintenance as I believe that is the only way to avoid real problems - to spend money before trouble arises.

First the good news - even a Land Rover does not totally fall apart all at the same time - not everything breaks down simultaneously, even if the warning lights suggest that. My thinking is that while finding the fault or faults will be near impossible, fixing them will be relatively cheap - and it is not the tranny - that would be too easy.

I find that the more lights that illuminate at the same time, the better, as that then suggests a wiring concern rather than any specific mechanical problem. The bad news is that mechanical problems are easier to find and fix than wiring related.

The odds are that one conductor in one of the many the twisted pair Canbus circuits has broken or is breaking and that the problem has been detected by one of the many computer systems and then cascaded to all of them, hence the appearance of all the trouble lights.

A transmission fault along with a cruse control inoperative light is often a bad brake light or signal light filament as picked up by the systems monitoring - note the term bad, not broken or burned out, but bad as in defective. Yes, bulbs that appear to function can cause the computers to detect faults. This is why you want to only use LR spec bulbs, not off shore bulbs as their specs, if they have any, vary too widely.

Suspension fault lights are more often a result of the LR lawyers having told the LR software design people that in the USA, that LR cannot afford the lawyers needed to protect them from the other lawyers; hence at the first sign of any problem, put the 3 into safe mode. This is defined as suck the air out of the air springs - the resulting ride will definitely take the vehicle off the road. The owner may just park it, fix it, or best of all, buy a new one - yes, that is more common than one might think, and only bankers will then be involved - the lesser of the evils.

With that lead up over with, I suspect you have a broken or breaking Canbus wire perhaps related to one of the wheel speed sensors and it shows as a brake pad wear light - plus a lot of other stuff. The only light that has me a bit puzzled is the low coolant level. I say that as most of the low coolant sensor level sensors are defective or go defective well within the warranty period. Land Rovers fix for that was to have the software people write out the coolant level circuitry and hence one should never see that light on, at least never when the coolant level is low. The pre software fix problem was that the light went on when the level was good. I suspect that when the computers get upset, they do not follow the software instructions.

This is a good thread with lots of pictures as to where you might look. It is probably your best place to start if I am correct.

Also check both front wheel wells as with sharp low speed turns as when parking, the front or rear of the tyre rubber tread can cut thru the air suspension wiring if the cable becomes loose from being tied tight to the frame.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Suspension fault, front cross-link valve (SOLVED)

Originally Posted by SENC

An early Christmas gift for myself, both to protect my aging leather seats and to get away from the black.

Originally Posted by CatskilCruiser

Who makes/sells these?

Originally Posted by SeattleDriver

Melvill and Moon. It’s a South African outfitter, they are made to order, very nice stuff.

Originally Posted by DakotaTravler

Today I took my front valve block apart... once again. I never did flush my air lines when I put in my new Arnott AMK style compressor. And a month after doing so I had issues up front and had to rebuild the valve block. Has some white powder that we all know about. Well today I took it apart assuming it was fouled yet again but shockingly it was 100% clean. Not a hint of any white residue. That at least made me feel good knowing the system was clean now of desiccant debris. But then I realized I had to have a leaking strut, and I do. So at 206,000 miles it is time to swap em out. Fortunately at $460 shipped form the UK for OEM they dont break the bank. Hopefully they came this week and I can swap em before the weekend. Did my front end rebuild not too long ago, so all the bolts should be easy to remove. I am looking forward to what should be an improved ride quality.