What did you do to your LR3 today?
#41
#42
#43
Newbie to the LR3 world. Just purchased New to me a 2007 LR3 HSE few weeks ago. Love it compared to the GX470. I just installed HID fog lights. I am always impressed at these forums with the "how to's". The installs took about 2 hours due to the shortness of power lead. Purchased the HID kit from xenon depot. Great product. Looking forward to adding rear view camera.
Any reviews on rear view cameras?
Any reviews on rear view cameras?
#44
rear camera install
The jpg is of a 1/4" colour CCD NTSC 170 degree camera I got off eBay along with one of those GVIF units.
Sony CCD 3 Color Metal Durable Multifunction Mirror Swithable Car Backup Camera | eBay
It camera works better than I anticipated. I mounted it in my stock 2005 rear upper hatch black plastic handle. It looks pretty much like the OEM D4 setup.
I could have located the camera a bit closer to the metal of the hatch per the LR4 location for what that is worth - there is enough hollow space inside and probably would if I did it again - just to make it look truly "factory". The offset to the middle is about correct and per factory.
Use WD-40 or similar to internally lubricate the upper hatch rubber "hose" when you are pushing the camera leads thru.
Sony CCD 3 Color Metal Durable Multifunction Mirror Swithable Car Backup Camera | eBay
It camera works better than I anticipated. I mounted it in my stock 2005 rear upper hatch black plastic handle. It looks pretty much like the OEM D4 setup.
I could have located the camera a bit closer to the metal of the hatch per the LR4 location for what that is worth - there is enough hollow space inside and probably would if I did it again - just to make it look truly "factory". The offset to the middle is about correct and per factory.
Use WD-40 or similar to internally lubricate the upper hatch rubber "hose" when you are pushing the camera leads thru.
The following 3 users liked this post by bbyer:
#45
I somehow knew that was coming.
http:// disco3. co. uk/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5042&pos=16
http:// disco3. co.uk/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5042&pos=17
bbyer, what do you know about sun roofs. You seem to be the master of details on things. I want to know about every bit of the parts, etc. working on something that will be cool..
http:// disco3. co. uk/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5042&pos=16
http:// disco3. co.uk/gallery/displayimage.php?album=5042&pos=17
bbyer, what do you know about sun roofs. You seem to be the master of details on things. I want to know about every bit of the parts, etc. working on something that will be cool..
#46
sunroofs
If you mean the big one - the one that is the light above the second and third row seats, about all I know is you do not want to break it and have to replace it.
Regarding the front seat movable one, it is more normal; undo/loosen four Torx screws from the inside sitting in the seats and the glass comes out -that is how you adjust it to fit as well.
Do not confuse adjustment with calibration. To me, adjustment means the glass sits high or low relative to the roof sheet metal. Calibration means it does not close tight or quit moving.
Calibration is as follows.
Sunroof calibration
Under some circumstances, (i.e. if the battery is disconnected), the sunroof position may need to be recalibrated. The sunroof position is recalibrated as follows:
1. With the battery connected, turn the ignition switch to position ll.
2. Press and hold the front of the switch for 20 seconds.
The sunroof will start to move.
3. Continue to hold the switch until the sunroof completes one full open and close cycle. When the sunroof stops moving, release the switch.
The sunroof can then be operated as normal.
Note: Calibration will not function if the battery voltage is low.
I do the calibration thing with the engine running as I am always concerned about low battery power and the computers. Also 20 seconds is longer than you think so be patient - note FRONT.
Regarding heat rejection, I have an Infra Red rejecting clear film applied to the inside surface of the three sunroofs to reduce the heat coming thru. It does work; also used the same clear film on the two front side windows. I am not into tint as there is too much winter darkness up here but any heat, I regard as a problem.
If you get looking up inside sort of under the front movable glass at the plastic tracks/slides, you will probably see that they are cracked. It is normal - well for the early ones, and I suppose still on the 4's as well, but does not seem to matter; hence do not worry about it.
The big problem is plugged water hoses from the roof drain channels. The flippers and round **** on the centre console are not plants and do not take watering well, be it from a Double Double or spring showers.
Sometimes a hair dryer is the fix for the switches, most times, your wallet.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...0Blue%2078.pdf
Regarding the front seat movable one, it is more normal; undo/loosen four Torx screws from the inside sitting in the seats and the glass comes out -that is how you adjust it to fit as well.
Do not confuse adjustment with calibration. To me, adjustment means the glass sits high or low relative to the roof sheet metal. Calibration means it does not close tight or quit moving.
Calibration is as follows.
Sunroof calibration
Under some circumstances, (i.e. if the battery is disconnected), the sunroof position may need to be recalibrated. The sunroof position is recalibrated as follows:
1. With the battery connected, turn the ignition switch to position ll.
2. Press and hold the front of the switch for 20 seconds.
The sunroof will start to move.
3. Continue to hold the switch until the sunroof completes one full open and close cycle. When the sunroof stops moving, release the switch.
The sunroof can then be operated as normal.
Note: Calibration will not function if the battery voltage is low.
I do the calibration thing with the engine running as I am always concerned about low battery power and the computers. Also 20 seconds is longer than you think so be patient - note FRONT.
Regarding heat rejection, I have an Infra Red rejecting clear film applied to the inside surface of the three sunroofs to reduce the heat coming thru. It does work; also used the same clear film on the two front side windows. I am not into tint as there is too much winter darkness up here but any heat, I regard as a problem.
If you get looking up inside sort of under the front movable glass at the plastic tracks/slides, you will probably see that they are cracked. It is normal - well for the early ones, and I suppose still on the 4's as well, but does not seem to matter; hence do not worry about it.
The big problem is plugged water hoses from the roof drain channels. The flippers and round **** on the centre console are not plants and do not take watering well, be it from a Double Double or spring showers.
Sometimes a hair dryer is the fix for the switches, most times, your wallet.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...0Blue%2078.pdf
#47
#48
nothing really on the sun roofs
I do not have anything special on the sunroofs. I guess this is because I have not had to do anything yet other than adjust the movable one due to wind noise and so far, the big sheet remains the original.
I later determined the wind noise was primarily from the A pillar plastic covers where the rubber / plastic edge meets the glass. 3M black electrical tape was the solution to getting a tight wind noise free edge.
I have since along with a new Pilkington windscreen, installed a new plastic cowl cover and new A pillar moldings - no tape now and no noise.
I later determined the wind noise was primarily from the A pillar plastic covers where the rubber / plastic edge meets the glass. 3M black electrical tape was the solution to getting a tight wind noise free edge.
I have since along with a new Pilkington windscreen, installed a new plastic cowl cover and new A pillar moldings - no tape now and no noise.
#50