What is this sensor on engine?
#1
What is this sensor on engine?
I noticed a little oil dipping from this sensor, on the driver side of the engine.
I've looked up shop manual but didn't find what it is.
I think the rubber O ring is bad, but looks like it's hard to remove. Is the dipping something I can ignore?
Thanks guys!
I've looked up shop manual but didn't find what it is.
I think the rubber O ring is bad, but looks like it's hard to remove. Is the dipping something I can ignore?
Thanks guys!
#3
Some folks have stated here that it can be changed without removing the valve covers, pop it out and pop in a new seal. The guys at the shop said it might work, but it really isn't the best way to do it for various reasons. The seal is not sold separately from Land Rover, but you can order the Jag part. # AJ82856 There is one on each valve cover.
The bigger question would be how many miles on it, and where else is it leaking. I just did all my valve cover seals, and it really did need to be done.
The bigger question would be how many miles on it, and where else is it leaking. I just did all my valve cover seals, and it really did need to be done.
#4
#5
Everything on the top end was virtually a rubber o-ring of one sort or another. I did end up with an extra set of the valve cover gaskets. Then seals would be needed for the intake, the valve cover seals for the spark plug holes, and bolt holes. Probably you can hold off on that, I've got a little over 146. I wanted to change ALL my hoses, including the one with the t-connector on it, to do it, required removing the intake. I had some oil seeping on the oil fill, VVT, etc. so it made sense to do the whole thing. At the same time the guys were able to do a visual inspection of the top of the heads, looked good, etc.
One interesting thing to note, is the radiator has plastic hose fittings, that are also sealed with an 0 ring and pressed together. That has started to break down on the end. The guys said that it will continue to break down until it just lets loose from the radiator, so a new radiator is on my short list. -- every frigging thing is made out of plastic of one sort or another these days and will absolutely not last forever.
Feidhlim is way more of an expert on engine stuff though..
One interesting thing to note, is the radiator has plastic hose fittings, that are also sealed with an 0 ring and pressed together. That has started to break down on the end. The guys said that it will continue to break down until it just lets loose from the radiator, so a new radiator is on my short list. -- every frigging thing is made out of plastic of one sort or another these days and will absolutely not last forever.
Feidhlim is way more of an expert on engine stuff though..
#6
Everything on the top end was virtually a rubber o-ring of one sort or another. I did end up with an extra set of the valve cover gaskets. Then seals would be needed for the intake, the valve cover seals for the spark plug holes, and bolt holes. Probably you can hold off on that, I've got a little over 146. I wanted to change ALL my hoses, including the one with the t-connector on it, to do it, required removing the intake. I had some oil seeping on the oil fill, VVT, etc. so it made sense to do the whole thing. At the same time the guys were able to do a visual inspection of the top of the heads, looked good, etc.
One interesting thing to note, is the radiator has plastic hose fittings, that are also sealed with an 0 ring and pressed together. That has started to break down on the end. The guys said that it will continue to break down until it just lets loose from the radiator, so a new radiator is on my short list. -- every frigging thing is made out of plastic of one sort or another these days and will absolutely not last forever.
Feidhlim is way more of an expert on engine stuff though..
One interesting thing to note, is the radiator has plastic hose fittings, that are also sealed with an 0 ring and pressed together. That has started to break down on the end. The guys said that it will continue to break down until it just lets loose from the radiator, so a new radiator is on my short list. -- every frigging thing is made out of plastic of one sort or another these days and will absolutely not last forever.
Feidhlim is way more of an expert on engine stuff though..
You mentioned one way is to pop out the O ring for my leaking VCT and pop in a new one, what kind of bad consequence may occur? If it's donable, I ll skip taking off the entire cover.
#7
Some guys on the board here, have used a screwdriver to work it out, then slide the new one on and snap it into the hole. It is just a bit tricky because it slides over the sensor, as a result there is no give to put it on. There is a potential it might not seal, though it seems to have worked for everyone here, so if you are careful it should work. I just wanted to point out it is not how it was intended to be replaced.
#9
Hi, just received my AJ82856 variable camshaft timing ( VCT) oil solenoid seals and fitted them in no more than 20 or so minuets, including removing the engine cover, MAF and air filter cover. Access to the left bank seal is unobstructed and after disconnecting the plug on top of the VCT I used a 1/4" chisel to prise out the seal, new one just presses in. (Photos).
Right bank is a little more awkward as the air filter housing lid and MAF need to be move out of the way, but then the removal and fitting of the seal is the same, easy peasy and MAF and covers replaced.
No messing about teasing out, just lift out and refit.
Right bank is a little more awkward as the air filter housing lid and MAF need to be move out of the way, but then the removal and fitting of the seal is the same, easy peasy and MAF and covers replaced.
No messing about teasing out, just lift out and refit.
#10
Hi, just received my AJ82856 variable camshaft timing ( VCT) oil solenoid seals and fitted them in no more than 20 or so minuets, including removing the engine cover, MAF and air filter cover. Access to the left bank seal is unobstructed and after disconnecting the plug on top of the VCT I used a 1/4" chisel to prise out the seal, new one just presses in. (Photos).
Right bank is a little more awkward as the air filter housing lid and MAF need to be move out of the way, but then the removal and fitting of the seal is the same, easy peasy and MAF and covers replaced.
No messing about teasing out, just lift out and refit.
Right bank is a little more awkward as the air filter housing lid and MAF need to be move out of the way, but then the removal and fitting of the seal is the same, easy peasy and MAF and covers replaced.
No messing about teasing out, just lift out and refit.