California stop (the thunk) can be minimized with a firmware update. Of course if you stop completely rather than roll and accelerate you won’t have the problem either.

 

Is the update process pretty easy through gap? Assuming it isn’t already updated of course. The acceleration slam shift doesn’t even bother me because it is pretty easy to avoid. It’s the jolt of the downshift that I really don’t like because it is unavoidable.

 

Check whether you have the update already or not, request the firmware, pay for the firmware (fast lane), connect vehicle to a reliable power source for the duration of the update, follow prompts to flash, etc.

Seems to work for some. Others say no change so either they don’t have the same problem at all or misunderstand/misdiagnose their issue.

 

I know my iid says the transmission is up to date, but not sure if that means anything or not. Maybe the update isn’t supported by the gap tool so I’d have to pay to find out?

“The GAP Fast Lane Service gives access to one (1) ECU update not currently supported by the IIDTool.”

This fist statement is a real head scratcher to me.

 

I reset the transmission adaptations, and if anything it is worse. New solenoids are ordered, but my gut tells me I’ll soon be pulling a transmission to replace the torque converter.

 

Because ZF say not to reset adaptions unless you change any hardware in the box.

 

You mean stuff like seals, separator plate, and solenoid replacement?

 

I would not imagine that anyone taking the time to remove and split valve body just to put in Zip kit would not take effort to replace all solenoids, bridge seal, seal adapter, sealing sleeves and harness sleeve while in there.
As for GAP toll, this should be a priority nr.1 for every LR3 owner, not new tires, not off road accessories. It is almost virtually impossible to diagnose anything on this vehicle without decent fault reading tool, not to mention resetting engine, transmission adoptions among other countless useful features
After 20 tears of LR3 ownership and 340 K miles under her belt, I can honestly say, that proper maintenance and care will allow you to enjoy the ownership of this magnificent vehicle.
Now, in regards to transmission adaptation reset, every time you change oil, internals, sleeves, clutches, seals you should deffinetly reset tranny adaptations our to new oil viscosity. Back in the day, when only tool to diagnose LR3 was Faultmate 2, I started reseting adaptations every 6 months, for good measure((very ill recommendation from one of the member of well known british forum). After 4th or 5 th time, I started experiencing hard shifting between 5th and 6th gear, that I could not fix for another 200 000 miles until recently, when I decided to do full tranny service on my driveway. I purchased solenoids, bridge and valve leaves, new plastic pan and 8 QT of Lifeguard 6 oil from ZF. This service was not easy, finicky and I believe this this service turned out to be the best improvement on shifting quality and overall smoothness. It goes without saying that after adaptions reset, everyone should follow a PROPER transmission adaption driving sequence. This step was is well documented on many platforms and it makes ALL the difference after resetting values. Do not just drive like grandma , please take time to follow this specific driving sequence.

You can also watch Waffle Square youtube channel how he did it and how much this sequence improved his driving /shifting experience. He also provides links to other ZF/BMW channel that explains why this is important step that should not be skipped.

Good luck!

 

I replaced the solenoids, and all is good now. It also shifted much better after resetting than it did with just the zip kit. At least there is now a documented case of fixing the California kick without replacing the entire transmission.

 

I did do the first section of the adaption process when I first replaced the solenoids. I managed 1 round of the fifth gear adaption and a few sixth, but it would take several hours to get through those unless you lived somewhere flat. It is shifting perfectly now.

If I had another similar issue I would skip the kit and just replace the bridge seal/tubes, separator plate, and solenoids.