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2011 LR4 Engine Knock Idling

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  #21  
Old 03-16-2021, 05:49 PM
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I updated the link with Google drive link. Thanks for the heads up.

Originally Posted by jlglr4
Video link seems to be broken.
 
  #22  
Old 03-16-2021, 07:04 PM
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I hear a number of noises (these are noisy engines). I hear a lighter, very fast ticking that sounds like valve train (at least to my ears). Then I hear a slower regular noise, more of a clanking. I assume that’s the noise you’re concerned with. Sounds to me like the HP cam follower, but hard to be certain - increases with engine speed? You can put your stethoscope to the fuel rail - see how loud it is, and whether there is a different pattern of knocks coming from the rail. If its louder on the rail and the pattern matches, that’s probably it. If the sound doesn’t increase with engine speed, check your fan clutch.
 
  #23  
Old 03-16-2021, 07:46 PM
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Hi, thanks for the reply.

- yes the slower deeper tapping noise is what I’m referring too.
- when present it does increase with engine speed in frequency
- I took my stethoscope out and yes I hear it in the fuel rail. Though the rail is noisy it’s there. If listen for it in the valve block it filters out the fuel rail injector noise and is easier to hear. It’s a deeper sounding noise.
- what’s interesting while I was listening for it, while idling, the noise almost disappeared. I hear it faintly. When present its very easy to hear.
- I just went for a quick drive and it is back. I can hear it from inside the car. Than I drove it spirited and it was gone.
- I’ve noticed that when I hear it if I give the engine the beans I can make the knocking go away. What gives?

Thank you all.

Originally Posted by jlglr4
I hear a number of noises (these are noisy engines). I hear a lighter, very fast ticking that sounds like valve train (at least to my ears). Then I hear a slower regular noise, more of a clanking. I assume that’s the noise you’re concerned with. Sounds to me like the HP cam follower, but hard to be certain - increases with engine speed? You can put your stethoscope to the fuel rail - see how loud it is, and whether there is a different pattern of knocks coming from the rail. If its louder on the rail and the pattern matches, that’s probably it. If the sound doesn’t increase with engine speed, check your fan clutch.
 

Last edited by Sire; 03-16-2021 at 11:46 PM.
  #24  
Old 03-17-2021, 12:42 PM
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Could be a sticking lifter. You can search up youtube videos - see if it sounds familiar. They make different oil additives for freeing stuck lifters - probably wouldn’t hurt to try. I take it your not seeing any trouble codes?

The other obvious culprit is a loose timing chain. The V8’s were known for early timing chain guide failures. Not sure if you’ve had that fixed yet. If not, you could maybe look through the oil filler cap and see if you can sense any slack - some people use a right angle pick (just don’t drop anything down in there!). Probably hard to tell though. You might want to just take it to a local mechanic to have him listen to it - preferably someone with some experience with Land Rovers. A lot of times they won’t charge you anything just to have a listen.
 
  #25  
Old 03-18-2021, 06:50 PM
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Hi all, I took the RRS to my local Indy, mind you 175 miles away . Great guys over there. We ran the engine with all the accessories off of it and took out all the shields.
We listened carefully for quite a while. Once the shields and skid plates were off, it felt like the sound is emitting from the center front of the engine.
The knocking wasn't there when we listened to the fuel pumps.

The mechanic is puzzled though he thinks it is the timing chain. I will be dropping off the car April 5th and they want to keep it there for a few days to diagnose further. They don't just want to throw parts at it.
That is my update... I hope to have this sorted out soon.

PS. we do own a 2010 LR4 that the timing chain, guides and tensioners were replaced. It does not make this knocking sound.

Originally Posted by jlglr4
Could be a sticking lifter. You can search up youtube videos - see if it sounds familiar. They make different oil additives for freeing stuck lifters - probably wouldn’t hurt to try. I take it your not seeing any trouble codes?

The other obvious culprit is a loose timing chain. The V8’s were known for early timing chain guide failures. Not sure if you’ve had that fixed yet. If not, you could maybe look through the oil filler cap and see if you can sense any slack - some people use a right angle pick (just don’t drop anything down in there!). Probably hard to tell though. You might want to just take it to a local mechanic to have him listen to it - preferably someone with some experience with Land Rovers. A lot of times they won’t charge you anything just to have a listen.
 

Last edited by Sire; 03-18-2021 at 06:53 PM.
  #26  
Old 03-18-2021, 10:36 PM
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Good luck with it. Let us know the final diagnosis when you get it.
 
  #27  
Old 05-01-2021, 12:31 AM
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I got the car back. The mechanic did the whole timing chain repair. The knock persists, I can say that it has nothing to do with the timing chain.

I’m determined to fix this but at this point I’m puzzled. Any other ideas? By the way I can make the knock go away if I accelerate hard past 5k rpm. Thanks

Originally Posted by jlglr4
Good luck with it. Let us know the final diagnosis when you get it.
 
  #28  
Old 05-01-2021, 01:22 PM
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Only other things that come to mind are the valve tappets/lifters, variable camshaft timing solenoids, and cylinder sleeves. Not sure if your mechanic might have looked at the first two items when they did the timing chain. A slipping cylinder sleeve can make a ticking noise, but I’m not sure how you would assess without pulling it apart, which is probably not worth the money.

You might want to have the oil pressure checked to make sure the pump is still working well, as I think oil pressure getting low can also lead to some of these ticking problems. What makes me think of it is the fact that your sound goes away at really high rpms - if you’re having a pressure problem, you’ll frequently get more pressure at higher rpms. But that also could be lifters too - they can quiet down at higher rpms.

Aside from checking oil pressure, maybe the first thing to try is some oil additive designed to free up any gunk in the lifters - see if that helps. I’ve not researched them much and never used any myself, but I know there’s one called Marvel Mystery Oil.

You should also post up that video on landroverworld.org. Pretty active forum over there.
 
  #29  
Old 05-01-2021, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jlglr4
Only other things that come to mind are the valve tappets/lifters, variable camshaft timing solenoids, and cylinder sleeves. Not sure if your mechanic might have looked at the first two items when they did the timing chain. A slipping cylinder sleeve can make a ticking noise, but I’m not sure how you would assess without pulling it apart, which is probably not worth the money.

You might want to have the oil pressure checked to make sure the pump is still working well, as I think oil pressure getting low can also lead to some of these ticking problems. What makes me think of it is the fact that your sound goes away at really high rpms - if you’re having a pressure problem, you’ll frequently get more pressure at higher rpms. But that also could be lifters too - they can quiet down at higher rpms.

Aside from checking oil pressure, maybe the first thing to try is some oil additive designed to free up any gunk in the lifters - see if that helps. I’ve not researched them much and never used any myself, but I know there’s one called Marvel Mystery Oil.

You should also post up that video on landroverworld.org. Pretty active forum over there.
Hi, thanks for the reply. Just to clarify the noise goes away after I bring up the engine to high RPMs and when it idles down it’s gone. I think I’m going to use some of the BG oil additives to do a cleaning of the engine, do a fresh oil change and see what happens.
 
  #30  
Old 05-01-2021, 04:04 PM
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Thanks for the clarification. I think that would rule out the valve timing solenoids (you should have other codes for that anyway). Might even rule out the cylinder sleeves. It seems that could still be consistent with sticking lifters, although I’m not sure why the really high RPMs gets them running smooth rather than just driving for a while at lower rpms. Still, I think the oil additives would be my first try before spending a bunch more money.
 


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