My wife went on a road trip and got the restricted performance warning, said the electronics started acting up and doing weird displays. Checked the codes when she got back and got he P0087 low fuel rail pressure code. Tested the fuel pressure on the rail with a guage and it was reading 60-70 psi and pressure was holding pretty good after shutting off the engine. When the engine starts cold it takes some cranking to get started and will surge, but when it warms up will idle good. Tried installing a new pressure sensor LR044707, didn't work. Tried cleaning the injectors and MAP sensors to no avail. Bought another tester so I could give live data and discovered that the gauge pressure on the rail was reading higher than the absolute fuel rail pressure being sent to the OBD monitor by at least 10 psi and about 15 psi when engine was not running. So I tried installing another LR012280 fuel sensor with pigtail permanently attached. Still the OBD monitor is reading lower by 10-15 psi what is showing on the pressure gauge attached to the rail. I believe that the proper pressure is about 65 psi, which is what is showing on the gauge. Can anyone help me here? I'm at a loss for what to do next.

Below is some of the freeze frame data for the P0087 code on the last run:

Abslt TPS(%) 16.5
Eng Speed 1159
Baro Press 29.2
Calc Load 21.6%
MAF lb/m 1.24
MAP HG 8.0
IGN ADV 45 degrees
ST FTRM2 13.3%
LT FTRm1 -2.3%
LT FTRM2 -3.9%
ST SEC FT1 0%
ST SEC FT2 0%
LT SEC FT1 -0.8%
ABS Load 16.5%
Fuel SYS 1 CLSD
Fuel SYS 2 CLSD
REL TPS 4.7%
THROT CMD 24.3%
ABS TPS B 33.3%
ACC POS D 18.0%
ACC POS E 18.0%
EVAP PURGE 0.0%
CMD EQ RAT 0.994
VPWR 14.668

 

Anyone who can help with this?

 

Where do you live (put it your data or signature)? NA or SC vehicle? How many miles? Was it really cold out when this problem started?

Try running some fuel system cleaner in a tank (SeaFoam); try changing the fuel filter. Does the car run rough, or just hard to start? What gas are you using? What's the status of the battery?

Finally, make sure all fittings are tight from the air cleaners to the throttle body and double check that your MAFs are tightly connected with no bent prongs.

I am not spotting anything out of the ordinary in your OBD II data. Try clearing the P087 and then do a hard reset on the battery (dumps errant voltage in electronics and capacitors -- disconnect negative cable from negative post and hold it against positive post for fifteen seconds).

 

Thank you for your suggestions. We are in Dallas, Texas. It was not cold when the problem started, probably in the 70s/80s. I used SeaFoam in an injection cleaner canister to clean fuel injectors. Has premium fuel in it now although I don't think my wife always put premium in it. It does not run rough except when warming up. Runs pretty smooth but just no power in limp mode. I will try the hard reset and resetting codes. Don't think the fuel filter is the issue given the pressure on the rail is good. Is it possible that the high pressure pump is bad? I am confused about why the pressure on the rail with a mechanical gauge is significantly higher than what is reported to the OBD scanner. Is that normal?

 

Also, forgot to mention that the battery seems strong, turns engine over fast when charged. I did however come out one day and the battery had been drained, not sure why.

 

Tapped out. You have done all that I would have done. Sometimes a visit to a dealer or a reliable independent beats high blood pressure and frustration.

 

P0087 is low fuel pressure. Keep in mind that because you have Direct Injection, you have both a low pressure fuel system and a high pressure fuel system. The 65-75 PSI that you measured is from the low side pressure (in tank pump). The high side pressure is anywhere from 2,000-5,000 PSI (very dangerous to mess with). Since you have a high and low pressure system, you also have high and low pressure sensors. So it is possible that you have a faulty high pressure sensor, or you could have an issue with one of the TWO mechanical pumps.
You best bet is to take your vehicle to a Land Rover specialist because two things need to be done:
1) Run the High Pressure system test with the factory tool (SDD). This will turn each high pressure mechanical pump off one at a time (each pump has an electric regulator valve) to monitor pressure performance. This is good at narrowing down if one or both pumps are not outputting pressure.
2) Have the pump shaft checked for being in time. The pumps have their own lobed shaft to work the mechanical pumps. They are timed to pump at a certain time and when out of time, reduces fuel pressure/volume. There is a special took used to check timing after removing the vacuum pump.
Often times, if the pump is out of time, you likely need chains, guides and tensioners anyway, but you can sometimes get away with making the pump shaft chain the jump the other way putting them back in time. Customers usually do this so they can trade it in.
I also usually see both pumps failed. It likely due to my "headlight bulb" theory. Many people come in with no headlights and when I tell them its just the bulbs, they tell me I'm crazy that both bulbs failed at the exact same time. No, they didn't, you drove forever with one bulb and when the 2nd one went out, you could no longer see so you brought it in. Same with the pumps. Both pumps output into lines that merge together at the valve cover. So the car WILL run on one pump and when the second pump fails, car goes to crap.

 

Hello all, first post here but I thought I would chime in here for anyone else who gets this far with a P0087.
So almost identical symptoms of the OP, 2013 LR4 HSE 5.0 NA... I've owned it for just over a year and wasn't quite yet ready to tool up for it at 64,000 miles but it forced me.

One of the high pressure pumps went bad, fortunately it was easy enough to swap out. Yes they are high (well, more like medium) pressure pumps, its really not that dangerous, just don't be stupid like trying to plug a high pressure leak with your finger. I say medium pressure because I also own a GMC Duramax with 550,000+ miles which also has a (original) high pressure Bosch fuel system reaching upwards of 30,000 psi so these max out about 1/10th of that (workshop manual says 200 bar which 200 x 14.7 = 2940 psi) so I'm not sure where the 5k comes from. Idle rail pressure after repair is about 350 to 400psi, before repair it was 65.

Troubleshoot it without a scan tool. Pull the fuel pump fuse and it will peter out, replace and its a rough start but eventually runs. It may even throw some other DTC's like misfires or air leaks but they are after the fact there's not enough fuel. If you feel like working on it:
1, pull the fuel pump fuse, crank it over a few times until it doesn't fire (bleeding the fuel pressure)
2, disconnect the battery
3, suck the oil out of the engine
4, pull the skid plates and splash guards to get to the pumps, compression nuts are 17mm and torx are T30

The rear pump can be replaced without much else (if you ignore most of the manual) the front pump will need the alternator pulled and *Maybe* the engine mount loosened. When you crack the compression nuts, slowly let fuel pressure drip out. don't scratch the flares on the fuel lines and you can use then again.

You'll need a tool to reset the DTC's I tried out the iCarsoft LRII and was pretty happy.

Do this at your own risk, I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express the night before...

 

Rookie here, first ever post and just trying anything to help my independent Land Rover mechanic figure out my problem, which seems to be related to the above in this thread.

Details:
2012 LR4 with 80,000 mi and no prior major issues. 2 weeks ago check engine light comes on as I am decelerating at a stop light and engine abruptly shuts off. Re-start is fine, but sluggish shifting and poor performance. Drives FINE in command shift mode, but loses power in automatic at low speeds and when down-shifting or idling. I take it directly to my mechanic who reads error codes (can't give specific codes, sorry) which point to fuel delivery system. After he calls Land Rover dealer (I live 5 hours from nearest) he recommends replacing the high pressure fuel sensor first. This done, car drives normally for one day on a highway-only trip. the following day while driving at low speed, same phenomenon occurs: engine loses power and shuts off. Back to shop, this time no fault codes so shop recommends replacing fuel delivery system (all 3 fuel pumps - high/low pumps in engine AND fuel delivery system in gas tank). This now done, and problem persists. He is now suggesting replacing the pressure sensor in the tank fuel pump, but I'm not feeling confident that we're on the right track (but I'd be thrilled if we are as I'm close to $4000 on this so far).