I bought my LR in August. It’s been in the shop more than I’ve driven it. That can’t figure out why it’s dying. And it’s always dying in the middle of an intersection! Talk about stressful! Thankfully I live in a small town. So I think it’s connected to the ECO? I had a local guy look at it and he said he was able to clear all the codes except that one. I don’t believe it’s an option on my car 🤷🏻‍♀️ It’s lit up on my dash with the circle and it crossed out. And I can’t turn it on. I feel like my troubles happen when I have my steering wheel Warner, and both seat warmers on. I feel like it’s electrical and connected. But they have yet to figure it out. I’m so over it 😫 I want a car I can trust.

 

Sorry to hear of your troubles. Really tough to say much about this with the info provided. You should try to find a mechanic that specializes in land rovers if possible. You should also try to find out what he’s checked, and what codes he’s cleared, so we can try to brainstorm with you.

A little more info on how it’s “dying” would be helpful as well - does the car shut down when you come to a stop, or when you try to take off from a stop, i.e., under acceleration, or when just cruising along? Does it hesitate or stutter before it dies, or does it just suddenly turn off? Are any dash lights going on (e.g,. check engine light or warning messages like “restricted performance”)? Does the instrument panel shut down entirely - like no electrical power at all?

Eco seems to be unreliable in a lot of these cars, but I haven’t heard of it causing other problems. If the eco is simply not working at all (it doesn’t shut the engine down when you come to a stop), then I kind of doubt it’s the eco causing the car to die. On the other hand, if the eco is working part of the time, then it’s possible the aux start/stop battery or. charging system is giving you a problem.

You mention that you think it happens more often when you are using the warmers. This puts a high electrical drain on the charging system, and if the alternator is going bad, it might not be giving enough energy to run the warmers and the ignition system. So, I might start there - check the health of the main battery and alternator. Then check the health of the eco battery.

If either battery is replaced, the battery control module should be reset and the batteries initialized. This is something a non-land rover mechanic might not be able do do as it’s a software procedure.

 

The power supply distribution box (I think) contains the LIN master node for the cold climate package (heated windshield, heated steering wheel, and heated seats). When I removed mine for my dual battery install, those features stopped working. It also is responsible for sending 12v to the starting solenoid and pinion relays.

I say all of that to say that is probably where your problem lies. Even if the ECO battery was dead, the system would still work and would default to allowing the car to function as normal. I would focus there.

here is a new one for sale:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114219202957

 

I think it's a bit of a leap to go from the OP to replacing any components at this point.

To the OP: you need to get the fault codes read by someone with a LR-specific FCR. If you don't have an IID Tool and are happy working on your own vehicle, then consider buying one. Or find a good LR indie that has the proper kit to read specific codes. A generic FCR won't help you much at all. Once you get the codes read, report back what you see.

Also, check the condition of your start/stop battery and main battery. If it were me, I'd charge both batteries properly and then do a hard reset on the vehicle (do a quick search for how - takes about 30 mins and you don't need any kit) then see what that gets you. I would not replace any components at this stage.

 

Granted a leap, but an informed leap. I bet the codes are stored in the gateway module and specifically indicate the dual battery system.

OP:

​​​​@pagoda still makes a good point. GAP diagnostics IID tool is an essential item in your tool box. Definitely charge the cranking battery.

Do not worry about the ECO battery at this point. Like is said, if it is dead, the system defaults to aborting start/stop operations. It's charge status would not cause your vehicle to shut down randomly.

 

...but charging the S/S battery followed by a hard reset may clear the light, in which case it would point to a fault elsewhere. Were it me, I'd charge both to rule them out. If you need to replace the S/S battery get one of t'interweb and do it yourself. The stealer will rob you blind. (You may need to do a battery reset after, for which you'd need the appropriate diagnostics tool (like the IID)...).